Soldering is one of the most important skills in FPV (First Person View) drone building. Whether you’re assembling your first quadcopter or troubleshooting a video transmitter in the field, the quality of your solder joints directly impacts flight reliability. One question many pilots and builders ask is:

If my solder already has flux inside it, do I really need to add more flux?

The short answer: sometimes yes, sometimes no. In this guide, I’ll explain when flux-core solder alone is enough, and when you should still reach for extra flux.

What Is Flux-Core Solder?

Flux-core solder is solder wire with a thin channel of flux running through its center. As the solder melts, the internal flux is released, cleaning the metal surfaces and helping molten solder flow smoothly over the joint. This is the solder I’ve been using and have been happy with.

For FPV electronics work, most builders use rosin-core or no-clean flux solder in a diameter between 0.5 mm and 0.8 mm. This size and composition work well for everything from ESC pads to small signal wires.

When the solder melts, that flux:

• cleans oxidation

• improves heat transfer

• helps solder “wet” the metal

• makes the joint flow smoothly

Without flux, solder just beads up and refuses to stick.

For FPV work, I typically use:

• rosin-core or no-clean

• 0.5–0.8mm diameter

That size gives you control on tiny pads without flooding everything.

It’s what I use for basically every build.

This is the solder I use

When Flux-Core Solder Is Enough in FPV

From experience, there are plenty of times when the built-in flux will give you a perfect, reliable joint without any extras.

1. Fresh, clean pads

Brand new flight controllers and ESCs usually solder beautifully.

No oxidation. No grime.

Just:

• heat

• touch solder

• done

The internal flux handles everything.

2. Pre-tinning pads and wires

When you’re tinning:

• motor wires

• receiver leads

• small signal wires

Flux-core is perfect.

Quick touch → shiny coat → move on.

No need to overthink it.

3. Small signal wires

UART, RX, camera, VTX control wires — these joints are tiny and low-current.

They don’t require much heat or solder.

Extra flux usually isn’t necessary.

4. Field repairs

If you’re fixing something at the flying field, you probably don’t want to carry:

• flux pen

• paste

• alcohol

• wipes

Flux-core solder keeps things simple and fast.

I’ve fixed plenty of quads with just:

• iron

• solder

• tweezers

When You Should Still Add Extra Flux

Click here for the flux pen I use

Even good flux-core solder has its limits. Here are scenarios where extra flux makes the difference between a “good enough” joint and a bulletproof one.

1. Oxidized or Dirty Pads

FPV gear often gets exposed to moisture, grass, and dust. This creates surface oxidation that the small amount of internal flux can’t fully remove. Adding extra flux ensures the solder wets the pad properly.

2. Large Heat-Demanding Joints

For XT60/XT30 connectors, ESC ground pads, or large capacitor leads, extra flux improves heat transfer and solder flow, making the job quicker and reducing the risk of overheating the pad.

Extra flux:

• improves heat transfer

• helps solder flow faster

• reduces the time you’re cooking the pad

3. Reflowing Old Solder

If you’re reworking a joint, the old solder already on the pad won’t get much help from the flux in your new solder wire. Applying extra flux helps the old solder reflow and bond cleanly.

4. Delicate SMD Work

Small components like VTX antenna ground shields or camera connectors need precision. Extra flux helps control solder flow and avoid accidental bridges.

Click here for the flux pen I use

Best Practices for Using Flux-Core Solder in FPV

• Buy quality solder – Brands like Kester and MG Chemicals have reliable flux that flows well and burns off cleanly.

• Use the right diameter – 0.5–0.8 mm gives you control on small pads without overloading them.

• Don’t rely on flux-core for cleaning – If the board looks dull or has visible corrosion, clean it first with isopropyl alcohol and apply extra flux.

• Store properly – Keep solder sealed in a cool, dry place to prevent oxidation.

I use Flux-core solder for most FPV soldering tasks, especially when working with fresh pads, clean wires, and small joints. But when you’re dealing with oxidation, big connectors, or rework jobs, adding extra flux—whether from a pen, paste, or liquid—can mean the difference between a joint that works now and one that lasts.

The post How To Solder FPV Drone Electronics appeared first on MattyFleisch.

By Matt Fleischer, aka MattyFleischFPV, FPV pilot since 2015.

Last updated 2/7/26

FOR THOSE GETTING INTO THE HOBBY, WATCH THESE VIDEOS

FPV (First Person View) drones have taken the world by storm and if you look closely it’s everywhere now. They’re used in commercials, films, sporting events, and sadly, even in war.

Mattyfleisch’s (my) Journey Into FPV

FPV first caught my attention in 2015 when I discovered Tiny Whoop on YouTube. Seeing these tiny drones and the happy faces of people around them showed me how fun and awesome they are. The smiles alone made me realize this was something that could put a smile on just about anyone’s face, including my own.

Beginner FPV Options

I’ve talked to a lot of beginners, there are several directions you can move in…

• Get a drone, dive head first and burn a ton of cash – This is the fastest route to becoming a strong pilot, but it is EXPENSIVE. You will crash a lot, break everything, re-buy stuff as you learn and figure out what you like, but you will learn and iterate at a break-neck pace.

• Get a simulator – The cheapest and safest route for most people. Get a radio, a simulator, and learn the basics.

• Get a starter FPV drone for beginners – The happy medium of getting something to start with, to learn on, and to get flight under your belt. I have a page that has a video series you can check out that steps through getting into the hobby.

Why a Beginner FPV Drone Helped Me

I jumped in head first and first got a couple small Cheerson drones from Alibaba, then Tiny Whoop, then my first 2-inch, 3-inch, and eventually 5-inch mini quad that I built myself using Stinger Swarm’s instructions.

Now with two identical Stingy quads, I was finally armed with something I could rapidly test, fly, and learn with.

The beginner fpv drones that got me my first flights are fondly remembered lol – and they taught me a lot about the hobby.

Below are some starter fpv drones I’d look into…. These are decently priced, they’re pretty fixable/upgradeable, and they’re great for those that are just getting started.

Beginner FPV Drone Kits Comparison Table

FPV Terms for Beginners:

• RTF: Ready-to-Fly (just charge and go)

• BNF: Bind-and-Fly (needs compatible controller and goggles)

• DIY Kit: You build it yourself

• Analog vs Digital: Analog is cheaper, digital (like DJI) gives HD video

• Whoop: A small ducted indoor-friendly drone

What Is an FPV Drone Kit?

Drone kits come in two main types:

• DIY kits: For those who want to build and understand every part of their drone. I like these the most because you’re in on the process of getting in the air.
• Ready-to-fly (RTF) kits: Pre-assembled drones for beginners who want to start flying immediately. While these are convenient, and can be fine for cinewhoops or other drones that might not crash a whole lot, if you’re flying freestyle FPV I recommend knowing how the drone is built by doing it yourself.

DIY kits typically include:

• A frame to hold everything together.
• Motors and propellers to provide thrust.
• A flight stack (flight controller and ESC) to control movement.
• Optional extras like goggles, radios, or cameras.

I like the Bardwell kit because it makes it fool proof; everything in compatible, you learn how to build a drone, you can’t mess it up. Just make sure you have spare parts on hand for when you crash.

Best for Beginners: Joshua Bardwell DIY FPV Drone Kit

DIY FPV Drone Kit

Tips for Choosing a Beginner FPV Kit

Before you even think about buying your first drone, it helps to understand the basics:

• Sim Compatibility: Practicing on a simulator like Liftoff or Velocidrone is the cheapest way to get good without crashing a real drone. I personally went this route, and admittedly did not spend enough time in it. I crashed A LOT, and it cost me an arm and a leg. Ended up spending a lot more time in the sim, and it helped me fast-track my motor skills very quickly.
  • Pro tip: use whatever simulator you enjoy. I like Velocidrone for its realism. The others are fine, too. Don’t get hung up on which one — What matters is getting started NOW.
• RTF vs. BNF: RTF (Ready-to-Fly) kits come with everything, while BNF (Bind-and-Fly) kits require a separate controller and goggles.
  • There is one big thing to keep in mind when deciding to buy a pre-built drone vs a DIY kit where you build it.
    • If you build it you will learn 5X as much about the hobby….think about it. The more you learn to solder, repair, etc, the better off you will be. If you just bought a pre-built drone you’ll have no idea if the build quality is actually good (because they are made by hand by a tech somewhere) and dealing with customer service to fix this stuff is a massive pain in the butt. I much rather be able to fix my stuff than deal with the hassle of chatting, calling, or shipping out my drone to be fixed and waiting. NOTHING STOPS YOUR PROGRESS LIKE WAITING.
    • My best advice when getting a beginner kit is to look at the Joshua Bardwell kits on GetFPV. Why? Because they come with everything you need to build your first drone and there is nothing you need to figure out + you get the benefit of learning how to fix your stuff.
      • My second best advice is to make sure you grab a video system (I prefer analog and with the DJI ban you’re better off anyway) and make sure you buy spare parts!
      • 8 motors
      • 2 spare Flight Controllers
      • 2 spare ESCs
      • Spare motor screws, nuts, standoffs, tools, and more.
      • If you need any of the gear I use regarding tools and whatnot it’s here.
• Analog vs. Digital: Digital systems, such as those offered by DJI, typically provide better video quality but come at a higher cost and now with the DJI ban things are a little more complicated. Analog is cheaper and has less latency – although with DJI’s O4 Race Mode, that difference is becoming increasingly negligible.
• Controller Compatibility: Not all radios work with every drone. Multiprotocol transmitters give you more options. I like full sized radios with full sized gimbals that have expansion ports on the back.

My Advice: Don’t let time slip away while you contemplate gear. Look to what is working for other people, and give it a shot. This is most of the gear I personally fly with every time I go out. You will need to explore to find what you like, but if you don’t get started that process will never begin.

Benefits of Starting with a Beginner DIY FPV Drone Kit

Starting with a DIY FPV drone kit can set you up for success.

Here’s why:

• Learn the Basics: Building or assembling a drone teaches you how it works, making future repairs easier.
• Save Money: Bundled kits reduce costs compared to buying individual parts—and they ensure compatibility. It will work.
• Customize Your Experience: Kits grow with you as you learn to tweak and upgrade components.
• Replacement Parts: As you break stuff, you can replace parts easily, and the best part (IMO) is that you can use pretty much any parts you need to.
  • This is a big departure from 2,3,4 inch prebuilt drones that have specific parts, wiring harnesses, etc that might require a more careful repair session. DIY kits are built on 5-inch frames and can take just about any standard parts.

Best FPV Drone Kits for Beginners

Non-DIY FPV drone kits usually involve a prebuilt drone that often includes proprietary parts click for an example these are usually easier to get going (you literally open the box, charge the bateries, and fly) however they can be damn-near impossible to fix if you break something.

Pros and Cons of Whoop Kits

Pros:

• All-in-one package gets you in the air FAST 💨
• Comes with everything needed to get in the air
• Relatively inexpensive
• Reasonable durability
• Tons of fun
• Perfect for a birthday or Christmas gift
• Works as an on-ramp for the greater FPV hobby

Cons:

• Hard to fix
• Difficult to find parts
• Lower quality radio
• Lower quality goggles
• Not very customizable

FPV Kit Goggles

FPV drone kits sometimes come with box goggles, but if you plan on growing beyond the first drone – you’ll want to understand the different video transmission types.

• Analog (5.8GHz)

  • Traditional and ultra-low latency (≈ 20ms or less)

  • Uses VTX (Learn more about analog Video Transmitters) and analog FPV goggles or receiver modules

  • Cheaper, lightweight, but lower image quality (standard definition)

  • Popular analog systems: TBS Unify, Rush Tank, Foxeer

• DJI Digital FPV (O3 / O3+ / Air Unit)

  • Digital HD video feed (720p–1080p @ 120fps)

  • Moderate latency (~28ms in low-latency mode)

  • Requires DJI FPV Goggles V1/V2/2 or Goggles Integra

  • Closed ecosystem, excellent range and penetration

• Walksnail (Avatar System)

  • Competing digital HD system

  • Resolution: Up to 1080p @ 120fps

  • Latency: Around 22–30ms

  • Compatible with Avatar goggles and HD VTXs

  • Modular, more open than DJI

• HDZero (formerly Shark Byte)

  • Open-source digital HD system

  • Lower latency than most digital options (~19ms)

  • Uses standard 5.8GHz RF with digital encoding

  • High performance in racing applications

• Analog-to-HD Converters / External DVRs

  • Analog transmission with on-board HD camera (like a GoPro) for recording only

  • Not a true HD feed to goggles, but used for editing/post-production

FPV Kit Radios

Some kits use different radio protocols than the standard, so you may need to purchase a new radio when transitioning to other drones & the gimbals might not be good enough for 5-inch quads where pilots need more stick resolution.

Radio Protocols

Don’t be overwhelmed; there are many radio protocols. Truth be told if you’re starting out, you’ll be fine with any of these except R9:

• TBS Crossfire

• TBS Tracer

• ExpressLRS (ELRS)

• FrSky ACCST (D8/D16)

• FrSky ACCESS

• FrSky R9

• Spektrum DSMX / DSMR

Where to Start

I highly recommend the EMax Tiny Hawk III Bundle. It’s a well-known kit, parts are readily available, and troubleshooting is easy. It also comes with everything needed to get started.

Here are some other FPV kits to look at

1. Beginner DIY FPV Drone Kit – QAV-S Joshua Bardwell SE 3” – Analog

Description:
This DIY kit includes all the components to build a lightweight 3-inch analog freestyle drone, designed to stay under the 250g limit. Ideal for beginners who want to learn to build and fly with analog FPV gear.

Features:

• QAV-S Joshua Bardwell Edition 3″ carbon fiber frame.

• Xilo Stealth 1404 4500KV motors (3S–4S compatible).

• LUX F4 AIO Flight Controller with 35A ESC.

• Caddx Ratel 2 micro camera and 600mW VTX for analog video feed.

• Sub-250g dry weight for more flexible legal flying (no FAA registration required in the US).

• Includes antenna, camera, hardware — everything but the receiver and battery.

Price: $249.99 (approx.)

2. BETAFPV RTF Cetus Beginner FPV Kit

• Description: This kit comes with the Cetus brushed whoop quadcopter, LiteRadio2 SE transmitter, and VR02 FPV goggles, providing everything needed to start flying.
• Features:
  • Self-protection function for auto-landing during low battery or signal loss.
  • Turtle mode to flip the drone upright after a crash.
• Price: $159.99

3. Beginner DIY FPV Drone Kit – QAV-S 2 Joshua Bardwell SE 5” – HD Ready

• Description: This DIY kit includes components necessary to build a 5-inch FPV drone, compatible with DJI O3 or Walksnail systems (FPV system sold separately).
• Features:
  • Upgraded QAV-S 2 frame with X-Lock Arm Mechanism.
  • Xilo Stax V2 45A BLHeli_32 ESC and F4 Flight Controller.
  • Stealth 2207 6S 1800KV motors.
• Price: $299.99

4. Intermediate DIY FPV Drone Kit – QAV-S 2 JohnnyFPV Edition 5” – HD Ready

Description:
Designed in collaboration with pro pilot JohnnyFPV, this 5-inch DIY drone kit is built for cinematic freestyle with style and performance in mind. The foldable arms and premium parts make it ideal for pilots looking to capture smooth footage while pushing aggressive lines.

Features:

• QAV-S 2 JohnnyFPV Signature Edition frame with X-Lock Arm Mechanism (foldable arms for compact transport).

• Lumenier 2307 JohnnyFPV V3 6S motors for ultra-smooth response and thrust.

• Argus F7 Flight Controller and 55A 4-in-1 ESC.

• HD Ready: Supports DJI O3 or Walksnail Avatar FPV systems (not included).

• Reinforced aluminum front camera cage and GoPro mount included.

• Designed for cinematic freestyle and smooth HD footage.

Price: $369.99

5. HGLRC Draknight 2″ 2S Beginner RTF Kit

• Description: A compact, fully assembled kit suitable for both indoor and outdoor use, powered by 2S LiPo batteries.
• Features:
  • Stable flight controller for smooth flying experience.
  • Durable build to withstand minor crashes.
• Price: $199.99

6. EMAX EZ Pilot Pro Beginner FPV Drone RTF Kit

• Description: This Ready-To-Fly (RTF) kit includes the EZ Pilot Pro drone, Transporter 2 FPV goggles, and the E8 transmitter. It’s designed for ease of use, making it ideal for beginners.
• Features:
  • Improved frame for durability.
  • 200mW VTX capabilities for better video transmission.
  • Solid pin PH2.0 connector for reliable power delivery.
• Price: $239.99

If you’re more interested in higher-end beginner FPV drones, please read on. I’ll discuss the drone I would start with, radio, goggle, charger, batteries, tools, and more…

But What About DIY Building an FPV Drone?

The best part about pre-made kits is it’s an easy onramp into the hobby, and they also make for awesome gifts!

But if you’re more interested in building a drone, and getting deeper into the hobby — it usually takes some skills in being able to repair things because you will crash a lot.

Pros and Cons of a Ready to Fly

Pros

• Easier than building
• Fixable (if you know how)
• Tons of parts available
• Customizable

Cons

• Expensive
• You’re hoping the person who built it did a good job

Build A Drone (With Guidance)

Joshua Bardwell has a build-it kit that gives you everything you need to build one for yourself. I think this is by far the best way into the hobby because it makes it simple to get rolling. It comes with almost everything you need to get started, and he has some excellent videos on how to build the drone.

That’s why I highly recommend looking at the Joshua Bardwell FPV drone kit (which comes in a few flavors) because it’s a solid blueprint for getting started in the hobby with a beginner drone. It is essentially a drone in a box, with a video that shows every step needed to get it flying. It doesn’t get much closer than that — having the man himself holding your hand and walking you through all the steps in the videos is going to make for the best build experience.

Bardwell Drone Kit Comes With:

• Frame
• Motors
• Flight stack (flight controller & ESC)
• Props
• Video guidance for building

What You Need To Fly:

• HD Camera & VTX

In my opinion, that’s the best way to go because once you learn the basics… building, fixing, and upgrading becomes second nature…

And if you’re just getting started, even if you’ve spent 495 days in a simulator, you’re going to crash a lot, and it will break, and you will need to fix it. I guarantee it!

Other FPV Drone Kit Options

I can’t speak for the other kits on the market, but the Apex Evo Mr. Steele edition from GetFPV is essentially what I fly the most. The frame is unparalleled, incredibly durable, easy to maintain, and replacement parts are readily available. The camera and video system uses the rock solid DJI O3 system, and Steele’s motors are powerful enough & efficient enough to run with.

This is a ready-built drone, so it’s not the same experience as building it yourself. While it’s great to get a drone ready to fly, it’s still very important to understand how they work and how to repair them… so if this is your first drone ever, I would still recommend the Bardwell drone kit over this bind and fly.

The Mr Steele bind and fly is a great option if you already know how to build and fix a drone.

How to Build an FPV Drone with YouTube Guidance

It was early 2018 when I started to graduate from smaller whoops to building a 5 inch mini quad, and StingerSwarm (if you don’t know him, look him up!) was my favorite pilot who also had an affordable build on his page. It was using the Stingy frame from a company called XHover, and he had a build video that showed exactly what to do.

If you have a favorite YouTuber that also happens to have a build — by all means go for it. The value of a video showing exactly what to do is immense, even though most channels don’t offer it (mine included).

This is in my opinion the best way to get into the hobby because you will learn how to source parts, how it all works together, while getting guidance from someone you trust to build your quad.

These days I gravitate towards Mr. Steele’s build (the Alien & now the Apex) because his build is the right balance of durability, quality & price for the money — especially relating to the analog builds which can be quite tricky to get clean video with!

But analog has for the most part been abandoned for DJI, and development on the specialty OSD / PDB boards to clean up analog video has all but ceased… So I recommend starting with DJI, because all you need to worry about is a frame, motors, and a flight controller stack choice.

Click here to Save 4% @ GetFPV with code: MATTYFLEISCH2026

Start FPV Small or Go Big?

If you’re looking to get started in the hobby there are a few ways to go about it. Either you want something that’s pre-built so you can get right into flying, or you want to build a drone for yourself so you can understand how to fix it, customize it, and grow as an FPV pilot. If you’re more interested in long-range FPV, click here.

But should you buy a small beginner drone kit, a larger drone, a DJI drone, or build one yourself? — These are common themes on places like Reddit, and there is no right answer.

It’s really whatever you’re up for and interested in, but for those on the fence, I always recommend building a drone for yourself by modeling after a build that already exists. You’ll know the parts fit together, and usually, there’s a video on YouTube that shows all the steps to turning it into a flying quadcopter.

The best part about building something yourself is that you’ll know how to fix things, and that is ultimately going to help keep you in the hobby. Nobody wants to fix other people’s drones!

Starting FPV on a Budget Whoop Drone Kit

Click here to see my favorite beginner drone kits

If you’re unsure if FPV is the hobby for you and want or need to save a bunch of money before you go all in, then I recommend getting a smaller whoop fly kit. These are excellent beginner FPV drones because they’re small, generally inexpensive, and, at the very least, a lot of fun.

DJI Avata 2 Drone Kit

DJI has made massive inroads into the FPV community with their Air Unit and Ocusync digital FPV video systems, and their FPV drone, and the Avata series. They pride themselves in making drones that are not so much repairable but that have a lot of built-in safety features to prevent a crash in the first place. Not only that, but some people want or need a simple drone they can easily get into the hobby with. You might be a realtor looking for a good drone for filming real estate, or you might be a cinematographer that needs something that’s safe to fly near people with — and that is where the Avata 2 comes in. It comes as a kit with DJI Goggles 3, and the new motion controller — and if you spend a little extra money on the fly more package you get 3 batteries (which I highly recommend!).

You might want to check out my video on what I think about it with the motion controller. It was surprising to say the least. Got more here.

Other posts you might want to check out:

How to get started in FPV

Starter FPV Goggles

FPV Gear I Use

Part 107 Assistance

DJI o4 Air Unit info

Small whoops for indoors

Avata 2 review

Long range FPV drones

How to Pick an ESC for Your Drone

Important Info On Analog VTXs

The post Best FPV Drone Kits for Beginners (RTF, DIY, Analog & Digital Options) appeared first on MattyFleisch.

How to Fly Your FPV Drone with Better Control and Tighter Cornering

If you want to fly your FPV drone with more control, smoother lines, and tighter corners, you need to focus on one core concept:

Cornering is not one stick movement — it’s all of them working together.

Once you understand that, your flying changes.

This guide breaks down how to improve your control, tighten your turns, and feel more locked-in when you fly.

The Truth About Cornering in FPV

A lot of beginners think cornering is just about roll.

It’s not.

When you take a tight turn in FPV, you are mixing:

• Throttle

• Roll

• Yaw

• Pitch

All at the same time.

That’s what gives you that locked-in, controlled, aggressive feel when you watch experienced pilots carve through spots.

If your turns feel wide, floaty, or out of control, it’s usually because you’re under-using one of those inputs — most often yaw or throttle.

Step 1: Get More Aggressive on the Sticks

One of the biggest mistakes new pilots make is being too gentle.

When you want to tighten up your cornering:

• Push the throttle up.

• Lean harder into the roll.

• Add yaw — sometimes more than you think.

• Keep forward pitch engaged.

You’re actively fighting what the quad wants to do.

Your quad wants to keep moving forward in a straight line.

You’re telling it:

“No. We’re changing direction.”

That requires commitment on the sticks.

If you barely move them, you’ll barely change direction.

Step 2: Ride the Throttle

Throttle control is what separates smooth pilots from sloppy ones.

When cornering aggressively:

• Increase throttle as you lean into the turn

• Use it to “push” yourself around the arc

• Reduce it slightly as you exit the turn to settle back in

Think of throttle like momentum control.

Too little → you sag and lose authority.
Too much → you overshoot and wash out.

Good cornering feels like you’re riding the throttle, not just tapping it.

Step 3: Mix Yaw into Your Turns

This is huge.

A lot of pilots roll and pitch but forget yaw.

Yaw helps rotate the nose through the turn and keeps your camera aligned with where you want to go.

When you’re tightening your cornering game:

• Roll to lean

• Pitch forward to maintain drive

• Add yaw to pull the nose through

Sometimes it’s a little yaw.

Sometimes it’s a lot.

That’s part of the feel you develop over time.

Step 4: Make Micro Adjustments

As you start flying tighter spots, you need to become “light on your feet.”

That means:

• Small throttle bumps

• Tiny yaw corrections

• Subtle pitch adjustments

• Constant roll modulation

It’s not one big movement.

It’s constant micro corrections layered together.

If you watch experienced pilots’ stick cams, you’ll notice the sticks are almost never still.

They’re always making small adjustments.

Step 5: Understand Equipment Feel (Props & Wind Matter)

Your setup changes how your quad behaves.

For example:

• Heavier props = more bite and authority

• Lighter props = smoother but less aggressive grip

• Wind = constant micro compensation required

If your quad suddenly feels floaty or less responsive in turns, it might not be your skill — it might be:

• Different prop pitch

• Wind conditions

• Battery sag

Learning how your quad responds in different setups makes you a better pilot.

Applying This to Power Loops

The same principle applies to power loops:

1. Ride the throttle up

2. Cut at the top

3. Bring it back in as you drop

4. Mix roll/yaw as needed to line up your exit

It’s still about blending throttle, pitch, roll, and yaw together — not isolating one input.

A Simple Practice Drill for Better Cornering

Next time you go out:

1. Find an open area.

2. Pick a fixed object (tree, pole, goalpost).

3. Practice doing tight 180° turns around it.

4. Focus on:

   • Adding more throttle than feels comfortable

   • Using more yaw than usual

   • Committing to the lean

Then review your DVR.

Look for:

• Wide exits

• Dropping altitude mid-turn

• Over-correcting on exit

Tight cornering is built through repetition and conscious stick awareness.

The Big Takeaway

Better FPV control comes down to this:

Cornering is controlled aggression.

You’re riding throttle.
You’re mixing all four axes.
You’re making constant micro adjustments.

And you’re actively pushing the quad to change direction.

I also recommend the RadioMaster Boxer ($99), the TBS Mambo, or the TBS Tango 2 to start. These are excellent radios, priced very well, and you can get started in FPV and learn how to fly a drone in about a week of practice for about $150. That is probably the cheapest way to get started, and the best way since you can crash 10,000 times and not spend any more money (yet!).

Once you start thinking of flying as blending inputs instead of moving one stick at a time, your control improves dramatically.

The post FPV Cornering, How to mix Roll Pitch Throttle & Yaw for tightness appeared first on MattyFleisch.

If you want to pass the exam, check out my video where I cover free resources you can use right now to pass the exam on the first try. I lay it all out in a simple video, just take a watch!

The post Part 107 Practice Test appeared first on MattyFleisch.

How to Clean FPV Motors (Step-by-Step Guide for Dirt, Dust, and Debris)

If your FPV motors have been exposed to dirt, dust, grass, or fine metallic debris, cleaning them out properly can bring them back to life—and extend their lifespan significantly. In this guide, I’ll walk you through how to safely disassemble, clean, and reassemble your FPV motors so they run smooth and quiet again.

This process works for most common FPV motors and doesn’t require anything fancy—just a few basic tools and a little patience.

What You’ll Need

Before you start, gather the following:

• Blue tack / sticky tack (Loctite Fun-Tak or similar)

• Cotton swabs (Q-tips)

• Rubbing alcohol (use sparingly)

• An old toothbrush

• 1.5mm hex driver (high quality recommended)

Step 1: Disassembling the Motor

Start by removing the bell screw on the bottom of the motor using a 1.5mm hex driver.

Once the screw is out, you should be able to separate the bell from the stator—but don’t be surprised if it feels stubborn. The magnets inside the bell are strong and really want to stay attached.

Pro Tip for Separation

If the bell is hard to pull off:

1. Partially remove the bell screw.

2. Thread it back in just a bit.

3. Use the screw as a handle to give yourself extra leverage.

This makes separating the bell much easier without stressing the bearings.

Step 2: Inspecting the Motor Interior

Once open, take a look inside the bell. You’ll often see brown or black dust clinging to the magnets—this is usually a mix of fine metal particles and dirt attracted by the magnetic field.

Not everything inside needs to be removed:

• Loose debris: Yes, clean it out.

• Dark putty near magnets: Leave it alone.

That dark putty is factory balancing compound. Removing it can throw the motor out of balance and cause vibrations.

Step 3: Cleaning the Bell with Blue Tack

Blue tack is your best friend here.

1. Take a small piece and gently mash it into the inside of the bell.

2. Work it around the magnets and spokes.

3. Pull it out and repeat until it comes out mostly clean.

This method grabs magnetic dust without spreading it around—and it’s safe for adhesives and coatings.

Make sure you:

• Clean between magnets

• Clean the top of each spoke

• Avoid disturbing the balancing putty

Step 4: Fine Cleaning with Q-Tips and Alcohol (Optional)

Sometimes blue tack won’t grab everything. For stubborn grime:

• Lightly dampen a Q-tip with rubbing alcohol

• Gently wipe the inside of the bell

• Immediately follow with a dry Q-tip

⚠️ Important:
Use alcohol sparingly. It can dissolve adhesives, and while it rarely causes issues, it’s best not to soak anything.

Step 5: Using a Toothbrush for Detail Work

An old toothbrush is perfect for:

• Cleaning between magnets

• Removing fine debris blue tack can’t reach

If you use alcohol here, apply it lightly and dry the area quickly with a clean Q-tip. The faster the alcohol evaporates, the safer it is for the motor.

Step 6: Cleaning the Shaft and Bearings (Carefully)

• Wipe the motor shaft clean

• Brush the top of the bearing gently

Avoid using alcohol on bearings. Most FPV motor bearings are not fully sealed and contain factory grease—you don’t want to wash that out.

A dry brush is usually enough.

Step 7: Reassembling the Motor

When putting the motor back together:

• Gently slide the bell back onto the stator

• Do not snap it together—the magnets can slam into the bearings and damage them

• Reinstall the bell screw

Most motor screws already have blue Loctite applied from the factory. Tighten the screw finger-tight, not overly snug.

Over-tightening doesn’t help and can cause issues later.

Final Check

Before calling it done:

• Make sure the motor spins freely

• Listen for grinding or scraping

• Confirm there’s no debris left inside

If everything feels smooth, you’re good to go.

Final Thoughts

Cleaning your FPV motors is one of the easiest ways to:

• Restore smooth performance

• Reduce noise and vibration

• Extend motor life after dirty crashes

The post How To Clean Drone Motors appeared first on MattyFleisch.

The Meta Quest 3 might be cool in theory, but FPV is GOOD for the SOUL. VR has nothing on FPV. I feel like I leveled up on this flight.

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Club Loose ProBroDown was the most savage drift event i’ve ever been to when all the Formula Drift drivers stick around and shred. After doing this I want to shoot for Formula Drift.

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My FPV freestyle drone CRASHED in NASTY water 🤯 WOW! Needed a day of running packs consecutively. Found my flow and had a great time. Last few times out didn’t work out so well, not gonna lie that I needed this.

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The post 🤕 LIVE AND LET LIVE? 😈 | FPV FREESTYLE appeared first on MattyFleisch.

Beast of the East was an awesome time. Good people, lots of flying, and some excellent gaps and dives that the crew specifically put together for the day. There isn’t a whole lot of vlogging in this one. I was just trying to enjoy the moment, and burn whatever packs I could.

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How to set up a capacitor fpv drone – It’s easy and I show you how to do it here. The best part is it costs like two bucks. As a bonus I show the fettec spike absorber wiring, and what it is and why you should always use one.

Panasonic Low ESR Capacitor: https://mattyfleisch.com/t/203f54c656/

Fettec Spike Absorber: https://mattyfleisch.com/t/81f41802ef/

Drone Gear: https://mattyfleisch.com/gear/

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