By Matt Fleischer, aka MattyFleischFPV, FPV pilot since 2015. Last updated 5/16/26

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This is the actual FPV gear I fly with. Not theoretical recommendations — the radio, drone, goggles, batteries, motors, frames, and tools I’ve been using on commercial shoots, freestyle sessions, and at the field for years. If you want the short version: I fly an ImpulseRC Apex Evo with Ethix Mr. Steele Silk motors, a Fettec flight stack, Thunder Power 6S batteries, an Ethix Mambo radio, and either Fatshark HDO2 or DJI Goggles 3 depending on the job. Everything else below is the details.

I’ve been flying FPV since 2015. The gear here has been through years of crashes, commercial gigs, and weather. If a product made this list, it’s because it earned its spot. If you’re brand new to all this, my beginner FPV drones guide is a better starting point — this page assumes you already know what you’re looking at.

What Drone Do I Fly?

I fly the ImpulseRC Apex family. I have the original analog Apex, the new Apex Evo, and the long-range ApexLR Evo. The Apex platform is, by a wide margin, the most durable freestyle frame I’ve owned. I’ve rebuilt the same frame a dozen times across crashes that should have ended it.

What makes the Apex worth it is the carbon arm design — symmetrical arms that resist breaking, embedded press nuts that simplify motor mounting, and a keystone center that distributes crash forces across the whole frame instead of concentrating them on the arms. ImpulseRC built it like it’s supposed to take abuse.

If you’re looking at a Ready-To-Fly version (which I’d recommend for anyone who doesn’t want to build), check out the Mr. Steele Apex Evo RTF — fully built and tested, with the Ethix Silk motors and Mr. Steele’s tune already loaded.

What Radio Do I Use?

I fly with the Ethix Mambo — though I originally ordered the plain TBS Mambo to save money. They’re functionally identical; the Ethix version just has the cosmetic upgrade. I came from the FrSky X9D and wanted the same general shape but simpler, and the Mambo delivers on that.

I customized mine with a clear case spray-painted with Montana Black Glitter as the first coat, then Montana Black Dark Indigo for a galactic look. I’ve also done a heat mod that lets you plug a 6S LiPo into the back to warm the sides — useful in cold weather.

One important 2026 update: ExpressLRS (ELRS) is the dominant FPV radio protocol now. If you’re shopping for a radio today, I’d strongly recommend something with ELRS built in. I cover the full landscape in my best FPV controller guide and walk through beginner-specific options in my best beginner drone radio post.

Heat mod video:

What FPV Goggles Do I Use?

I run two setups depending on the job:

Fatshark HDO2 (analog freestyle): These are my daily drivers and have been for years. The OLED display, contrast, and signal handling are still top-tier for analog FPV. I pair them with a Mad Mushroom omnidirectional and a Lumenier patch antenna for directional gain. The Crosshair Extreme is also a solid option, but I haven’t seen a huge real-world difference.

DJI FPV V2 / DJI Goggles 3 (commercial and track work): When I’m shooting commercial gigs, real estate, automotive events, or anything where I need crystal-clear HD footage to hand off to a client, I switch to DJI. The DJI FPV V2 goggles are still the industry workhorse for many use cases, and lately I’ve been flying the DJI Avata 2 with the Goggles 3 for jobs where I want a compact ready-to-fly system. The DJI Goggles 2 are also out there, but Goggles 3 is the current generation and what I’d recommend if you’re buying new.

For a more complete walkthrough of FPV goggle options, I cover the basics over here in my beginner FPV goggles guide.

What Antenna Setup Do I Run?

On the goggles, I run the Mad Mushroom as my omnidirectional and a Lumenier patch antenna for directional gain. The Mad Mushroom is right-hand circular polarized (RHCP), made by Video Aerial Systems, with 1.35dB gain across 5100MHz–6500MHz. The long feed cable lets the antenna stand above your head so the signal passes around the body instead of being absorbed by it (water in human tissue blocks 5.8GHz signal — yes, really).

It’s tall, durable, and works every single time. The included plastic grippy makes screw-on/off a snap. I haven’t found a reason to switch in years.

What Batteries Do I Fly?

I fly 6S. After years of running 4S and 5S, 6S is where I settled — it delivers higher voltage, better voltage regulation under load, less sag at the end of a pack, and longer flight times for the same capacity. A 6S pack runs at 22.8V nominal (6 × 3.8V), versus 15.2V for a 4S. More voltage means more motor headroom without pulling crazy current.

My go-to packs:

Thunder Power 1100mAh Lunar Lander (freestyle): The Thunder Power 1100 Lunar Lander packs are my freestyle daily drivers. They weigh 174g for 1100mAh, which is the best weight-to-power ratio I’ve found. Compare that to the Tattu R-Line at 197g for 1200mAh — 20 extra grams for 100 extra mAh isn’t worth it on a freestyle rig where every gram affects punch. Thunder Power packs are extremely punchy, hold voltage hard until the end of the pack, and I typically run them 10–15 months before re-upping.

CHNL 1300mAh 6S (heavier rigs and long range): For my heavier setups with a full-size GoPro, or when I’m doing major bashing where I’m going to crash a lot, the CHNL 1300mAh 6S packs are my pick. More capacity, more durable, and they handle abuse better than premium packs that you don’t want to scuff.

What Motors Do I Use?

I run the Ethix Mr. Steele Silk 2307 V5 (1750KV) on my freestyle builds. I’ve tried plenty over the years — Xhover, Hypetrain, T-Motor, Eachine — and I keep coming back to the Silks. Some pilots write them off because they’re not the absolute most powerful motor on the market, but raw power isn’t what I optimize for.

What I care about is total cost of ownership and durability. Here’s what makes the Silks worth it:

• Spare bells are available. When you bend a bell in a crash (and you will), you can replace just the bell for a few bucks instead of buying a whole new motor. This alone saves real money over a year of flying.
• Weight is 30–31g per motor — lighter than most competing 2307s, which matters on freestyle builds where weight directly affects punch and feel.
• Dust guards / motor pants are included — keeps dirt, grass, and gunk out of the bearings. Most motors are fully exposed and get dirty fast.
• Smoothness-to-power ratio is excellent on lighter rigs.
• I’ve had individual motors running 12+ months. While people brag about saving $10 on Amazon motors, they’re buying new sets every few months. Do the math.

If you want a deeper breakdown of how to actually choose motors for your build, check out my FPV drone motors guide, which covers KV, freestyle vs. long-range, and what to look for.

What Flight Stack Do I Run?

I run two stacks depending on the build:

Fettec F7 + Fettec G4 + 45A ESC: My main freestyle stack. The Fettec G4 paired with the Fettec 45A ESC has been bulletproof. Fettec’s tuning is excellent out of the box and their build quality holds up to crashes better than most.

Hobbywing F7 + 60A ESC: The Hobbywing F7 with 60A ESC is what I run on the drones I fly at the drift track and for commercial work where I want extra headroom on heavier rigs.

One thing worth mentioning: if you’re running heavier setups or pushing your stack hard, you should be using a Fettec spike absorber and a capacitor on your build. I cover the wiring in my capacitor setup post — it’s a two-dollar part that protects hundreds of dollars of electronics.

What Charger Do I Use?

The ISDT 1000W hobby charger is my pick. It’s fully featured, charges everything from 1S whoops to 6S race packs, and the build quality has held up over years of daily use. Pair it with a 400W power supply and you’re set for any battery in your fleet.

If you’re just starting and don’t need 1000W of charging power, a smaller ISDT or HOTA charger will work fine. But once you’re flying multiple packs per session and need to charge batteries in parallel, 1000W earns its place.

What Long-Range Drone Do I Fly?

For long-range, I fly the ImpulseRC ApexLR Evo 7″. You can grab the BNF version here or the frame kit here if you want to build it.

The ApexLR Evo is essentially the same chassis philosophy as the 5″ Apex Evo but with 7″ reinforced arms and improved electrical noise isolation that separates the VTX from the carbon frame. The result is a cleaner video signal at distance, which is critical for long-range work where you can’t just turn around when the picture breaks up. Built right, this thing will go further than you should reasonably fly without backups in place.

What’s in My Field Bag?

Backpack: I use the Ethix Backpack. It’s like an Apple product — if you’re already in the Ethix ecosystem with the radio bag and lipo bag, everything fits together perfectly. I pack light, and the Ethix bag rewards that. Some people like carrying a suitcase on their back. I don’t.

Lipo bags: Living in the northeast means a lot of cold-weather flying, which is why I picked up the Ethix heated lipo bag. When I don’t need the heating element, I use a stripped-down GoPro large carry case — it’s compact, cheap, and more than enough for a typical session.

Ethix Chesty: Ethix recently released a tactical chest mount / lanyard combo. I bring it when I want to leave my bag behind and go fly without strapping the whole pack on. It’s situational, not daily-carry. Full Chesty video here.

Action camera protection: I use a 3D-printed case for my DJI Action 2 plus glass screen protectors for regular freestyle. Glass protectors are cheap, they take the brunt of crash damage, and they’re way easier to replace than the actual camera lens. No-brainer.

Wire cutters / snips: I carry Irwin plier-style wire cutters and smaller snips. If you’re getting into any hobby that involves wire, get a set of these. For my full field tool kit breakdown, see my FPV drone tool kit guide — soldering iron, hex drivers, prop tools, smoke stopper, the whole list.

Brand New to FPV? Start Here

If you’ve landed on this page and you don’t have a drone yet, don’t try to copy my setup — it’s geared for someone who’s been flying for years and has crashed and rebuilt enough times to know what they want. Instead, start with the Joshua Bardwell FPV drone kit. It’s the best value-for-money beginner kit, includes a full step-by-step build video, and gives you the foundation to actually understand how a drone works. You’ll still need a radio and goggles separately — those are linked above.

For a deeper breakdown of beginner kit options (analog vs. digital, RTF vs. DIY), see my beginner DIY drone kits post.

Frequently Asked Questions

What FPV drone does MattyFleisch fly?

I fly the ImpulseRC Apex Evo with Ethix Mr. Steele Silk 2307 V5 1750KV motors, a Fettec F7 flight stack with 45A ESC, Thunder Power 1100mAh 6S batteries, and either Fatshark HDO2 or DJI Goggles 3 depending on the use case. For long-range I switch to the ImpulseRC ApexLR Evo 7″.

What FPV radio does Matt Fleischer use?

The Ethix Mambo (functionally identical to the TBS Mambo). It’s a full-size radio with a familiar X9D-style shape. That said, if you’re shopping new in 2026, I’d recommend something with ExpressLRS (ELRS) built in — it’s the dominant protocol now. My full radio breakdown is in the best FPV controller guide.

Why 6S LiPo batteries instead of 4S?

Higher voltage gives more motor headroom without crazy current draw, packs sag less at the end of the flight, and the weight-to-power ratio is better on modern motors designed for 6S. I flew 4S and 5S for years before switching, and once you fly 6S you don’t go back.

Is the Ethix Mr. Steele Silk motor the best motor for FPV freestyle?

“Best” depends on what you’re optimizing for. The Silks aren’t the most powerful 2307 on the market, but they’re light (30–31g), durable, ship with dust guards, and have replaceable bells — which lowers your total cost of ownership over a year of flying. For freestyle on a 5″ 6S build, I haven’t found a motor that beats them on the metrics I actually care about.

Do I need a $1000 charger to start FPV?

No. I use the ISDT 1000W because I charge multiple 6S packs in parallel during a typical session. If you’re flying one or two packs at a time, a smaller ISDT or HOTA charger in the $80–150 range will do everything you need. Upgrade later if you outgrow it.

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This grid has some FPV drone kits, great for those who like an Excel version.