By Matt Fleischer, aka MattyFleischFPV, FPV pilot since 2015. Last updated 5/16/26
Click here to see all the tools and gear I use
If you fly FPV, you will crash. And if you crash, you will repair. The core FPV drone tool kit you actually need is a temperature-controlled soldering iron, a set of 1.5mm/2.0mm/2.5mm hex drivers, a prop tool, precision tweezers, side cutters/snips, needle nose pliers, a smoke stopper, and a small parts pouch to keep it all together. Everything else is optional until you hit a specific repair that demands it.
I’ve been building, fixing, and flying FPV drones since 2015, and the tool kit below is the one I actually carry — not a theoretical “everything you might ever need” list. These are the tools that come with me to every field session and live on my workbench at home. If you build it, this kit will get you through 95% of repairs.
What Tools Do You Need to Build an FPV Drone?
The short answer: hex drivers, a soldering iron, snips, tweezers, and a prop tool. That’s the minimum viable kit. Anything beyond that is a “nice to have” until you encounter a specific job that requires it.
Here’s the breakdown of what I carry, in roughly the order I reach for each tool during a build or repair.
1. A Soldering Iron (TS100)
Every FPV build requires soldering — motors to ESCs, power leads to flight controllers, video transmitter pads, receivers, the works. You cannot get by without a temperature-controlled iron. The cheap fire-starter irons from Amazon will frustrate you and ruin pads.
I use the TS100. It’s compact, hits temperature in under 15 seconds, has an OLED display, and runs off a 4S LiPo battery via XT60 — which means I can solder at the field without an outlet. For a full kit version that includes 9 tips, a stand, and the XT60 cable, grab the TS100 Soldering Iron Kit instead.
If you’re brand new to soldering FPV electronics, read my guide on how to solder FPV drone electronics before your first build. Solder quality is the difference between a quad that lasts and one that fails mid-flight.
2. Hex Drivers (1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm)
Almost every screw on a modern FPV drone is hex. Motor screws, frame screws, stack screws, camera mounts — all hex. The three sizes you’ll use 90% of the time are 1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm. The set I use is from Husky (hardware store basic), and it’s served me fine. If you want a purpose-built option that lives in a roll-up case, the Ethix Tool Case is a 9-piece kit that covers hex drivers, prop wrench, carbon files, and wire cutters in one package.
Pro tip: quality matters here. Cheap hex bits will round out a screw head the third time you use them, and a stripped motor screw is a special kind of misery to deal with.
3. Prop Tool
Changing props is the single most common thing you’ll do as an FPV pilot, and a dedicated prop tool makes it dramatically faster than a wrench or pliers. I carry two Ethix tools — the TBS Ethix Multi-Purpose Prop Tool (which has 2.0mm and 2.5mm hex drivers built in) and the Ethix Prop Tool 1.5mm with flathead for the smaller screws and pry work.
These have ratcheting 8mm sockets on opposing ends — one direction tightens, the other loosens. They live in my backpack at all times. Lose one and you’ll feel naked at the field.
Click here to see all the tools and gear I use
4. Side Cutters / Snips
For trimming zip ties, cutting wire, and snipping leads flush after soldering. Flush cutters specifically — the kind designed for electronics work that cut wire even with the surface so there’s no protruding stub to short out. Don’t use household scissors for this; you’ll wreck them and get inconsistent cuts.
5. Needle Nose Pliers
For pulling heat shrink into position, gripping stubborn connectors, bending motor leads, and holding small parts you can’t reach with your fingers. A small pair lives in my kit permanently. They’re also useful for straightening bent prop blades or motor shafts after a crash (within reason — sometimes a bent shaft means a new motor).
6. Precision Tweezers
Anti-static, fine-tipped tweezers are essential for the small stuff — placing capacitors, holding tiny screws while you thread them, peeling back heat shrink, and positioning wires while soldering. I use the ones that come with the iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit, which is a great option if you don’t already have a set of precision drivers and tweezers. The iFixit kit is overkill for FPV alone, but if you fix phones, laptops, or anything else electronic, it pays for itself fast.
7. Smoke Stopper
If you’ve ever wired something backward and watched your flight controller go up in smoke, you’ll understand why this tool exists. A smoke stopper sits between your battery and your quad on the first power-up after a build or repair. If there’s a short, the smoke stopper trips before your expensive electronics fry.
For a more bulletproof option that completely cuts current flow on a short (instead of just limiting it), the VIFLY ShortSaver 2 works on both XT60 and XT30 batteries and is the one I’d buy if I were starting over. Use it every single time you power up a fresh build. No exceptions.
8. Screwdriver Set
Most FPV gear is hex, but Phillips and flathead drivers are still required for radios, goggles, batteries, action cameras, and various accessories. A small precision set covers it. The Husky kit I have is hardware-store basic and works fine. Whatever you grab, make sure you have small Phillips (PH00, PH0) and a small flathead.
9. Toothbrush (Seriously)
An old toothbrush is the best tool I own for cleaning out motors after dusty or grassy flights. Dry brushing the bell and stator removes debris without disturbing the factory grease in the bearings. If you want the full breakdown, I wrote a guide on how to clean drone motors — it’s an underrated maintenance habit that extends motor life dramatically.
For more on choosing the right motors to begin with, check out my FPV drone motors guide.
10. Leather Pouch / Tool Roll
You need something to keep this all in one place. A leather pouch, a tool roll, a small toolbox — whatever works. The point is that everything lives together so you can grab one bag and head to the field, and so nothing gets lost on the workbench. If you want a pre-built solution, the Ethix Tool Case includes hex drivers and slots for your TS100 already.
Click here to see all the tools and gear I use
What I Don’t Carry (But You Might Want)
These tools aren’t in my daily kit, but they earn a spot on the bench for specific jobs:
Third hand / soldering helper — If you solder a lot, a magnifying third hand with alligator clips holds wires while you work. I don’t carry one in the field, but on the bench it speeds things up considerably.
Multimeter — For diagnosing electrical issues, checking continuity, and verifying voltage. If you build more than one or two quads, you’ll want one. A $20 basic meter is enough for FPV work.
Wire strippers — You can strip wire with side cutters or even your fingernails for most FPV gauges, but a dedicated stripper gives cleaner, more consistent results.
Heat shrink in assorted sizes — Not technically a tool, but you’ll want a small assortment of 2mm, 3mm, 5mm, and 8mm heat shrink on hand for clean motor wire terminations and connector covers.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I really need a soldering iron for FPV?
Yes. Even if you buy a Ready-To-Fly drone, you’ll eventually need to solder a motor wire, a battery lead, or a receiver. There’s no FPV pilot who builds or repairs their own drones without a soldering iron. If you want to skip soldering entirely, you’re looking at a different hobby — like a DJI Avata, which is consumer-sealed gear.
What size hex drivers do I need for FPV drones?
1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm cover almost everything. 1.5mm is for motor bell screws and some camera mounts, 2.0mm is the most common frame screw size, and 2.5mm is for larger frame and stack screws. A set with all three plus a Phillips and flathead bit is ideal.
Is the TS100 worth it, or should I get a cheaper soldering iron?
The TS100 is worth it because it heats fast, holds temperature precisely, and runs off a LiPo battery for field repairs. Cheap irons either run too hot (lifting pads off your boards) or too cold (cold joints that fail in flight). If the TS100 is out of budget, the Sequre SQ-D60 series is a similar quality at a lower price point — but avoid anything under $20.
What’s the most important tool to buy first?
If you’re starting from zero, buy the soldering iron first. You can technically get by with cheap household screwdrivers for your first build, but you can’t solder XT60 connectors or motor leads without a real iron. Everything else can be upgraded over time. The smoke stopper is a close second — it’ll save you hundreds of dollars in fried electronics the first time you wire something backward.
Do I need all of this just to fly FPV?
No — if you buy a Ready-To-Fly kit and never crash, you don’t need any of this. But you will crash. Every FPV pilot does. The question isn’t whether you’ll need to repair your drone; it’s how prepared you’ll be when it happens. A basic tool kit pays for itself the first time you fix something at the field instead of going home early.
Putting It All Together
Building a usable FPV drone tool kit comes down to about $150–250 in tools that will last you years if you take care of them. The soldering iron, hex drivers, prop tool, snips, tweezers, pliers, smoke stopper, and a pouch to hold them all — that’s the kit. Add a multimeter and a third hand when you’re ready to step up your bench work.
If you’re still figuring out what drone to build with these tools, start with my beginner DIY drone kits guide. And if you don’t have a radio yet, the best FPV controller guide walks you through every option from budget to high-end.
Build smart, repair often, and keep flying.