We’ll talk about FPV goggles and what it takes to get started in the hobby. This is the fourth video in a playlist, so check the link in the description for previous episodes about getting started, choosing a radio, and more.

My FPV Goggle Journey

Like most people getting into FPV, I didn’t start with the high-end gear. My first pair of goggles was an Eachine box goggle that didn’t even have DVR recording capability. I was flying completely blind in terms of reviewing my flights afterward! After realizing how crucial it was to be able to review footage for learning and improving, I upgraded to another Eachine box goggle that actually did record.

From there, I moved up to the FatShark Dominator V2s, which was a massive leap in terms of image quality and form factor. But I eventually settled on the HDO2s, which have been my go-to goggles for freestyle flying ever since. While they’ve definitely seen better days (my foam is literally falling apart at this point), they remain incredibly reliable and highly customizable.

Yes, I do own the DJI V2 goggles and the DJI Goggles 3. And while the video quality is undeniably stunning, I still prefer analog over DJI for freestyle. Now with the latest restrictions making it more difficult to get DJI gear anyway, I’m glad I stayed with analog as my primary system.

By the way if you’re trying to figure out analog vs digital…. digital is easier to get a cleaner picture. But analog has super low latency, it’s cheap, and once you have it dialed in….it lets me fly super super fast without fear. I have some info here on analog vtxs if you need it.

Analog Goggles Overview

Let’s start with analog goggles. This is how I got into the hobby, and I still use this setup for freestyle flying. My goggles are Fat Shark HDO2s, and despite the wear and tear, they remain highly customizable:

• Receiver: I use a TBS Fusion, though other options like Rapidfire work well too.
• Antennas: My setup includes a TBS Triumph Pro and a Mad Mushroom. These are omnidirectional, with the taller antenna helping reduce signal breakup.
• Patch Antenna: For specific use cases like flying in parking garages, I swap to a patch antenna, which provides stronger signal penetration through obstacles.

Features:

• Foam: Customizable and replaceable with velcro, ensuring a perfect fit.
• Optics: OLED screens with adjustable diopters for precise focusing.
• DVR: Built-in recording to a microSD card.
• Battery: I use a 4,000mAh ThunderPower battery, which is reliable despite its age.

Cost:

• Goggles: ~$500
• Receiver: ~$120
• Antennas and battery: ~$70
• Total: ~$700
• While this might seem steep, this setup can last 5-6 years, averaging out to about $100/year.

Why I Prefer Analog for Freestyle

Click here for my favorite analog goggle setup

For freestyle flying, I prefer analog due to the lower latency compared to DJI systems. While DJI is improving, I still feel a noticeable delay that affects the precision of my movements. Additionally, analog is more cost-effective for frequent crashes, with replacement parts (FPV cameras and VTXs) costing around $70 combined.

When you’re practicing power loops or pushing your limits in tight spaces, that instant feedback from analog can make all the difference. And let’s be honest, crashes happen all the time when you’re learning or trying new tricks. Being able to replace a camera and VTX for $70 instead of a $130-$230 DJI air unit makes analog much more forgiving on the wallet.

DJI Goggles Overview

Click here for the latest DJI goggle

Next, let’s talk about DJI goggles. They’re transitioning to the O4 air unit and newer systems. Key points:

• Cost: Goggles start at $500 (New DJI N3 starts at $229), with air units around $130-$230 which is both current and anticipated costs for the O4 Pro and O4 Lite.
• Features: DJI goggles offer stunning video quality, making them ideal for cinematic flying or long-range applications.
• New Models: The N3 goggles are an exciting, budget-friendly option (~$229), featuring simpler optics and support for glasses.

Drawbacks: Replacement parts for DJI systems are costly, and frequent crashes can quickly add up. Plus, with recent restrictions on DJI products, availability and future support are legitimate concerns.

Other Systems

There are additional options like HDZero and Walksnail Avatar:

• HDZero: Offers low latency and a feel similar to analog but has durability concerns.
• Walksnail Avatar: Comparable to DJI in video quality but lacks widespread adoption.

Getting Started: What I Recommend

If you’re just learning to fly FPV drones, I’d suggest starting with a simulator first. Get comfortable with the controls before investing in goggles. Once you’re ready to fly real quads, consider starting with a small whoop drone or even the DJI Avata 2 if you want an all-in-one package.

For those ready to build their own quad, check out my guide on your first drone build and learn about soldering FPV drone electronics. If you’re concerned about compliance and sourcing parts, I’ve also put together resources on NDAA compliant drone parts.

Conclusion

Choosing the right FPV goggles depends on your flying style and budget:

• Analog is great for freestyle and cost-effectiveness.
• DJI excels in video quality and cinematic flying.

Most beginners start with DJI due to its ease of use, but analog remains a solid choice for freestyle pilots. And if you’re like me, you might end up with both systems for different applications. The most important thing is to get out there and fly—whether you’re exploring bandos or just cruising around your local park.

Looking to dive deeper into the technical side? Check out my guides on ESCs, motor maintenance, and more. And don’t forget—flying in cold weather? Grab yourself a hand warmer to keep your fingers functional!