Want to Improve Your FPV Flying? Loosen Your Sticks

If you’re looking for one simple change that can make a noticeable difference in your flying, here it is: loosen your throttle stick tension. I recently upgraded my Mambo gimbals to the TBS V2s, and while I was dialing in the stick tension, I figured it was a good time to share this tip that made a huge impact on my own flying.

Why Loose Sticks Matter

When your stick tension is too tight, you’re constantly fighting the springs. Instead of making tiny, precise adjustments, you end up skipping past the spot you’re trying to hit. You’re essentially limiting your stick resolution — the range of fine movements you can actually make — and that directly translates to less control in the air.

By loosening your throttle stick to the point where it has a little flop to it, you gain the ability to make incredibly fine inputs. You’re no longer overpowering stiff springs just to move the stick a fraction of an inch. The result? You can put the quad exactly where you want it.

Back when I was actively working to improve my flying, this was one of the first changes I made, and the difference was immediate. I wasn’t fighting the springs anymore — I was just flying.

How to Adjust Your Stick Tension

If you’re running a radio like the Mambo, the process is straightforward. Pop the back cover off and you’ll find a couple of small screws on each gimbal — these are your tension adjusters. Give them a few turns to loosen things up. I honestly can’t remember if it’s clockwise or counterclockwise that loosens them (it feels like it’s reversed), so just experiment until you feel the tension dropping.

You want to get to the point where the tensioners aren’t really engaged and the stick moves freely with minimal resistance. It doesn’t need to be as loose as mine, but getting it noticeably looser than stock is the goal.

Optional: Swap to Softer Springs

If you want to take it a step further, you can replace the stock springs with softer ones. TBS sells soft springs for a couple of bucks — they’re slightly wider and shorter than stock. The catch is that swapping springs requires removing the gimbals entirely, which is a bit of a pain. For most people, just adjusting those tension screws is going to get you 90% of the way there without any disassembly headaches.

What to Practice in the Sim

Once you’ve loosened your sticks, hop into your simulator and focus on these drills:

Ride the throttle: Practice smooth, tiny throttle inputs — up and down, up and down. Focus on making the smallest adjustments you can. You’re training your muscle memory to work with the new, lighter feel.

Hit small gaps: Find tight spaces in whatever sim map you’re flying and try to thread through them. The better your stick resolution, the smaller the gaps you can consistently nail.

Mix your inputs: Do orbits, practice cornering, and combine roll, pitch, and yaw while riding the throttle. The goal is to feel comfortable making fine adjustments across all axes simultaneously.

Vary your speed: Practice being smooth and cinematic, then switch to flying aggressively. You’ll notice the loose sticks help in both modes — precision at low speed and responsiveness when you’re pushing it.

You’ll Still Crash

Let’s be real — loosening your sticks isn’t going to magically eliminate crashes. But it will give you more control over where you’re putting the quad, and over time, that translates to cleaner lines, tighter gaps, and more confidence in the air. The greater your stick resolution and the more comfortable you are working with it, the smaller the stuff you can hit.

If you’ve been flying with tight sticks, give this a shot. Loosen them up, spend some time in the sim getting used to the feel, and see if it makes a difference for you. I think you’ll be surprised.

The post Want to Improve Your FPV Flying? Loosen Your Sticks appeared first on MattyFleisch.

Short answer: yes. But probably not the way you think.

Here’s stuff you can use to get organized. Go engage the field.

DM me on IG if you make inroads.

STUFF

If you spend any time in FPV communities, you’ll see the highlight reels — cinematic mountain chases, Hollywood film sets, massive production budgets. And while that world absolutely exists, it’s not where most people start. It’s not where I started. The truth is, making money with FPV drones is less about flying skill and more about understanding one fundamental concept: you’re solving someone’s problem.

Think Like a Marketer, Not a Pilot

Here’s what nobody tells you when you’re starting out. The people who will pay you money don’t care about your quad’s specs. They don’t care about your tune. They care about one thing: can you get them a result they can’t easily get on their own?

That’s it. That’s the entire business model.

When you think about it through a marketing lens, every paying client is someone with a pain point. A real estate agent needs listings that stand out from every other cookie-cutter phone photo on Zillow. A car dealership wants to showcase their inventory in a way that stops the scroll. A local sports venue wants content that fills seats. These people have problems, and you have a drone that can solve them.

The formula is simple: remove pain, deliver a result, with as little time and effort on their end as possible. The faster and easier you make it for them, the more they’ll pay. Speed equals price.

Forget Hollywood — Start Local

The big-name FPV pilots shooting feature films and documentaries didn’t start there. They started exactly where you are — looking for their first gig. The difference between them and pilots who never make a dollar is that they were willing to start small and start local.

Here are real, tangible opportunities that exist in virtually every area:

Real Estate: This is one of the most accessible entry points. Agents are always looking for ways to differentiate their listings. A smooth FPV walkthrough of a property offers something a traditional drone operator simply can’t — that immersive, cinematic flow through rooms, out windows, around the yard. Reach out to local brokerages. Show them what’s possible.

Property Inspections and Evaluations: Roofing companies, insurance adjusters, property managers — these are people who need visual documentation of properties, often in hard-to-reach places. An FPV drone can cover ground quickly and capture angles that would otherwise require ladders, lifts, or scaffolding.

Car Meets and Automotive Events: Car culture and FPV are a natural match. Local car meets, dealership events, auto shows — the organizers and participants all want content. Even a short, well-edited FPV rip through a row of cars gets attention.

Sports, Stadiums, and Local Events: This is a big one. Think about what’s within driving distance of you right now — high school football games, motocross tracks, BMX parks, skateparks, go-kart tracks, drift events, local 5Ks, mud runs, you name it. Every single one of these is run by someone who would love dynamic aerial content but has no idea how to get it.

Small Businesses and Storefronts: Restaurants, breweries, gyms, farms, campgrounds, wedding venues — small business owners are constantly trying to create content for social media and their websites. A 60-second FPV flythrough of a brewery can be the best marketing investment they make all year.

Get Your Foot in the Door

Here’s the part where I get real with you, because this is where I personally struggled before I figured it out.

I could fly. That wasn’t the problem. The problem was I had no clients, no portfolio of commercial work, and no idea how to find people willing to pay me. I worked in the film industry for a long time in completely unrelated positions, and what I learned there applies directly here: industries that look walled off from the outside are actually not — you just have to show up and be willing to start at the bottom.

Every venue, every event, every business on that list above has a person you can talk to. Not email. Not DM. Talk to. Walk into the drift track. Introduce yourself to the guy running the car meet. Chat up the property manager at an open house. Ask one question: “What would it take to get my foot in the door here?”

I did exactly this with a drift track near me. Was it paid work? No. But it gave me real-world commercial flight experience, it gave me content for my portfolio, and it opened up conversations that eventually led to paying work.

The big thing with anything you pursue in business is patience. You need to be putting a lot of irons in the fire, consistently, and you must stick it out for as long as it takes. Now that doesn’t mean sitting on your butt and waiting for a job to come through, you need to hit the ground running and HUSTLE.

Do It For Free (Strategically)

I know — “work for free” is controversial advice. But hear me out, because there’s a difference between being taken advantage of and strategically building your reputation.

When you’re starting from zero, you have no portfolio of commercial work, no reviews, no testimonials, and no proof that you’re reliable and professional to work with. Nobody is going to hand you a paid gig based on your freestyle reel alone. They need to know what it’s like to work with you on their project, on their timeline, with their expectations.

So yes — do a few jobs for free. But be intentional about it. Get a testimonial afterward. Ask if you can use the footage in your portfolio. Film yourself doing the gig for your social media, and show your competence. Get a Google review. Take a photo together and post it. Every free job should produce at least one asset you can use to land the next job — and that next one can be paid.

You’re not giving away your work. You’re investing in social proof.

Identify Your Biggest Constraint

If you want to turn this into real, consistent income, you need to think about your pipeline like a business. At any given time, your biggest constraint falls into one of these categories:

No leads at all: Nobody knows you exist. You haven’t put yourself out there. This is where most people get stuck and give up. The fix is simple (not easy, but simple) — start showing up, both in person and online. I advise social media because it is free traffic, but it takes a lot of time & energy.

Some leads, but they’re not good: People are reaching out, but they’re tire-kickers or they want work that doesn’t match what you offer. This means your messaging is off. You need to get clearer about what you do and who you do it for.

Good leads, but they’re not ready to buy: They’re interested, they like your work, but they’re not pulling the trigger. This is a trust and timing issue. Stay in touch, keep providing value, and be the obvious choice when they’re ready.

At every stage, the bottleneck is different, and so is the solution. But the first step for almost everyone reading this is the same: you need to generate awareness that you exist and that you do this work.

You can gain leads with paid ads, but as a marketer who runs paid advertising… I usually advise against it. Not because it doesn’t work, but because you really want to know how it works before you dump money into it.

Use Social Media as Your Proving Ground

You don’t need to wait for clients to start building your commercial reputation. Social media is your 24/7 portfolio, and you should be treating it that way.

Post what you intend to do — not just what you’ve done. Share your practice sessions. Talk about the types of work you’re looking to take on. Show behind-the-scenes of how you prepare for a shoot. Document your process of reaching out to local businesses. Be transparent about where you are in the journey.

Here’s something most people don’t think of: live stream your practice sessions. Fly with a buddy and simulate a real commercial shoot — practice following a car, tracking a runner, doing smooth real estate walkthroughs. Communicate with each other the way you would on an actual paid gig. Narrate what you’re doing and why. This does two things: it sharpens your skills under pressure, and it shows potential clients exactly how professional and capable you are before they ever reach out.

People hire people they trust. When someone can watch you operate, communicate, and handle yourself like a professional — even in practice — they’re infinitely more likely to hand you a check.

It Takes Time. That’s Not a Bug, It’s the Process.

I’m not going to sugarcoat this. Building a client base takes time and patience. You’re going to reach out to people who don’t respond. You’re going to do free work that doesn’t lead anywhere. You’re going to have dry spells where you wonder if it’s worth it. It is.

Every conversation you have, every free gig you crush, every piece of content you post — it all compounds. The pilot who starts today and stays consistent will be fully booked in a year or two while the pilot who waited for the “perfect opportunity” is still waiting.

You don’t need a Hollywood connection. You don’t need the fanciest gear. You need to get out there, start solving problems for people, and be relentlessly consistent about showing the world what you can do.

The work is out there. Go find it.

The post Can You Actually Make Money Flying FPV Drones? appeared first on MattyFleisch.

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If there’s one component on your FPV drone that takes the most abuse, it’s the motors. They spin at insane RPMs, get slammed into concrete, suck in dirt and grass, and are expected to keep performing flight after flight. And when they fail? It can take out your ESC, your props, or even cause a fire.

I’ve been flying FPV since 2015, and I’ve gone through a lot of motors. I have a giant bag of junked ones sitting in my workshop right now. I’ve smoked them, ripped screw holes out of them, crashed them into oblivion, and tried to throttle out of situations I definitely should not have throttled out of. So yeah—I’ve learned most of this the hard way.

This guide covers everything you need to know about FPV drone motors, whether you’re picking your first set or trying to figure out why motor 3 smells like burnt plastic. We’ll go from the basics all the way through diagnostics and maintenance.

How FPV Motors Work (The Basics)

FPV drones use brushless outrunner motors. “Brushless” means there are no physical brushes making contact inside—everything is controlled electronically by the ESC (Electronic Speed Controller). “Outrunner” means the outer shell of the motor (called the bell) is the part that spins, while the inner core (the stator) stays fixed to the frame.

Inside the bell, you’ve got powerful permanent magnets. Inside the stator, you’ve got copper wire windings wrapped around steel teeth. When the ESC sends current through those windings in a precise sequence, it creates a rotating magnetic field that pulls the bell (and your propeller) around. That’s the basic idea.

The key thing to understand is that the ESC and motor are a team. The ESC has to know exactly where the bell is in its rotation to fire the phases at the right time. When that sync is lost—called a desync—your quad tumbles out of the sky. More on that later.

What Is KV? (And Why It’s Not What You Think)

KV is probably the most misunderstood motor spec. It does not stand for “kilovolts.” It stands for the motor’s velocity constant—the number of RPMs the motor will spin per volt applied, with no load (no propeller).

So a 1900KV motor on a 6S battery (25.2V fully charged) would theoretically spin at:

1900 × 25.2 = 47,880 RPM (unloaded)

In reality, once you slap a prop on it, that number drops significantly because the motor is now doing actual work.

What Determines KV?

KV is set by how many turns of copper wire are wound on the stator. Fewer turns = higher KV (spins faster, less torque per amp). More turns = lower KV (spins slower, more torque per amp).

This is a real trade-off. High KV motors feel peppy and fast, but they’re working harder (pulling more current) to spin heavier props. Low KV motors have more grunt but lower top-end speed. The key is matching KV to your battery voltage so you land in a usable RPM range.

This is why long-range fliers generally opt for a lower KV motor, because they need less fast response time and more bettery-friendly flight times.

KV and Battery Voltage: The Pairing

This is the most important thing to get right. If you’re on 6S, you want lower KV motors (typically 1700–1950KV for 5-inch). If you’re on 4S, you need higher KV (2300–2650KV) to compensate for the lower voltage.

The goal is roughly the same top-end RPM regardless of battery voltage. But here’s the thing—6S is more efficient. Since power = voltage × current, a 6S system achieves the same wattage with less current. And since heat loss scales with the square of current (I²R), running 6S means cooler motors, cooler ESCs, less battery sag, and longer flights. It’s just better math. This is why the hobby has largely moved to 6S for 5-inch builds.

Motor Sizing: What Do the Numbers Mean?

When you see a motor labeled “2207” or “2306,” those numbers describe the stator dimensions. The first two digits are the stator diameter in mm, and the last two are the stator height in mm.

So a 2207 has a 22mm wide stator that’s 7mm tall, and a 2306 has a 23mm wide stator that’s 6mm tall.

The stator is where the magic happens—it’s where copper windings interact with the magnets to create torque. A bigger stator volume means the motor can handle more power and generate more torque before overheating.

The 2207 vs. 2306 Debate (5-Inch Freestyle)

For the standard 5-inch freestyle quad, these are the two dominant stator sizes. Their total volumes are actually pretty similar, but the shape of that volume changes how the motor feels.

2207 (taller stator): More magnet surface area vertically. These motors tend to have a punchier, more aggressive power curve—the thrust ramps up hard in the upper throttle range. Great for freestyle where you need to catch a heavy quad after a dive or rip aggressive power loops. Think muscle car.

2306 (wider stator): The wider diameter gives a larger leverage arm for the magnetic forces, which tends to produce a more linear throttle response. 50% stick gives you roughly 50% thrust. This is great for cinematic flying and technical racing where precise mid-throttle control matters.

The bell weight matters here too. The 2207’s taller bell tends to be heavier, which means more rotational inertia—the motor resists speed changes, giving a “smooth” and “locked-in” feel. Lighter bells (common on 2306 or “Lite” motor variants) feel more nimble and responsive, which racers prefer.

Neither is objectively better—it depends on your flying style.

I’ve switched to 2307 because it’s been the best blend for my setup and it’s a SLIGHT increase in performance.

Sizing Guide by Drone Class

Here’s a general reference for matching motor size to your build:

• Tiny Whoops (31–40mm props): 0603–0802 stators, very high KV (19000–25000KV on 1S)
• Toothpicks (2.5″–3″ props): 1103–1204 stators, 4500–6000KV on 2S–3S
• Cinewhoops (3″ ducted): 1404–1507 stators, 2500–3000KV on 6S
• Lightweight 5″ (sub-250g): 2004–2204 stators, 1600–1800KV on 6S
• 5″ Freestyle (the standard): 2207–2306 stators, 1700–1950KV on 6S
• 5″ Racing: 2207–2307 stators, 1950–2150KV on 6S
• 6″ Mid-Range: 2407–2507 stators, 1500–1800KV on 6S
• 7″ Long Range: 2806–2807 stators, 1100–1350KV on 6S
• Cinelifters (8″–9″): 2810–3110 stators, 900–1100KV on 6S

The pattern is simple: bigger props need bigger stators and lower KV.

What Happens When You Over-Prop a Motor

If you put a propeller that’s too big or aggressive on a motor that’s too small, you’re asking the stator to generate more torque than it physically can. The iron core hits magnetic saturation—it literally can’t carry any more magnetic flux. At that point, all the extra current you’re pumping in just turns into heat. The enamel coating on the copper windings melts, the wires short together, and you’ve smoked your motor.

Always make sure your prop load matches your stator size. If you’re not sure, check the motor manufacturer’s thrust tables for recommended prop sizes.

What’s Inside the Motor (And Why It Matters)

The Stator

The stator is made of thin stacked steel sheets (laminations) with copper wire wound around the teeth. Those laminations are typically 0.15–0.20mm thick. Thinner is better because it reduces eddy currents—wasted energy that just creates heat. Premium motors advertise things like “0.15mm Kawasaki steel” for exactly this reason.

The copper winding density (fill factor) matters too. More copper packed in means lower internal resistance, which means less heat. Modern FPV motors generally use single-strand windings because they handle heat better than multi-strand alternatives.

The Bell

The bell houses the magnets and transfers energy to the prop. Two things to know:

Magnets: Most quality motors use N52 neodymium magnets. The important spec most people miss is the temperature rating. Standard N52 magnets start losing their magnetism permanently around 80°C. Motors with N52H (rated to 120°C) or N52SH (rated to 150°C) magnets hold up much better under hard use. If you’ve ever noticed one motor feeling “gutless” compared to the other three after a hot session, the magnets may have partially demagnetized.

Unibell construction: Older motors had two-piece bells—the top cap and the side wall were separate pieces pressed together. These can come apart in bad crashes. Modern motors like the iFlight Xing series and many others use a “unibell” design machined from a single block of aluminum. It’s heavier, but way more crash-resistant. For freestyle, unibells are basically the standard now.

Bearings

The bearings allow the bell to spin freely on the shaft. When they go bad, the motor feels gritty or crunchy when you spin it by hand. Dirt, sand, and especially saltwater kill bearings fast. I’ll cover cleaning and maintenance further down.

A Note on My Motor of Choice

I’ve been running the Steele motors (by Ethix/TBS) since V1 came out, and I’ve flown every version. The main reason I keep coming back to them is that you can buy replacement bells separately, which is actually not common in this hobby. When a bell gets dented, off-balance, or the magnets get smashed from a crash, I just swap the bell instead of replacing the whole motor. Given how hard I fly, this has saved me a ton of money over the years.

They’re also engineered to be lightweight, which I appreciate. Of course, they’re not indestructible—I’ve still smoked plenty, ripped screw holes out, and had bearings give up on me. But having that bell-swap option makes a real difference when you’re going through hardware regularly.

Smoked and Burned Motors: What Happened and How to Tell

When someone says they “smoked” a motor, what actually happened is the enamel insulation coating on the copper windings overheated and melted. Once that coating breaks down, bare copper strands touch each other (inter-turn short) or touch the steel stator core (ground short). Either way, the motor is toast.

What Causes a Motor to Smoke?

• Over-propping: Too much prop for the stator size. The motor can’t generate enough torque magnetically, so excess current becomes heat. Rare, but it happens.
• Blocked propeller: Crash into a bush or get tangled in grass, and if you try to throttle out of it, the motor is essentially stalled while pulling maximum current. This is a fast track to melted windings. I’ve done this more than once—if something’s clearly not right after a crash, do NOT try to throttle your way out. Disarm, walk over, and check it.
• Bad solder joints: A cold or fractured solder joint creates high resistance at the connection point, which generates intense localized heat. This can burn the wire, the pad, or cause intermittent shorts. If you’re not confident in your soldering, check out my guide on soldering FPV electronics.
• Motor screws too long: This is a sneaky one. If your motor mounting screws are even slightly too long, they can poke through the motor base and physically touch the copper windings. This creates a direct short. Always check screw length before installing motors.
• Wire shorts: Pinched motor wires, frayed insulation from rubbing against carbon fiber edges, or poor wire routing can cause wires to short against the frame or each other. This can cause a fire. Route your wires carefully and inspect them regularly.

Watch the Adventure Here

How to Tell If a Motor Is Burned

Smell it. A burned motor has a very distinct acrid chemical smell—like burnt varnish. Once you’ve smelled it, you’ll never forget it.

Look at the windings. Healthy copper windings are a bright copper or gold color. Burned windings turn dark brown or charcoal black.

Spin it by hand. Disconnect the battery first. A healthy motor should spin freely with smooth, even resistance between the magnetic detents. If it feels like the brakes are stuck on, or it “bumps” way harder than your other motors, the phases are likely shorted internally.

⚠️ If a motor feels shorted when you spin it by hand, do NOT plug in a battery. A shorted motor acts as a dead short to the ESC, and connecting power will instantly blow the ESC’s MOSFETs. That turns a $15 problem into a $97+ problem.

This is what happens when your motor wire shorts and causes a fire…

The Multimeter Test

If you want to confirm what’s going on, grab a multimeter from your tool kit.

Phase-to-Phase resistance: Set your meter to Ohms. Measure between motor wire pairs: wire 1-2, wire 2-3, and wire 1-3. On a healthy motor, all three readings should be identical (something like 0.3Ω across the board). If one pair reads 0.0Ω or significantly lower than the others, you’ve got a shorted phase.

Phase-to-Ground continuity: Set your meter to continuity mode (the beep setting). Touch one probe to any motor wire and the other to the metal motor base. A healthy motor should show no continuity (no beep). If it beeps, the windings have melted onto the stator core—that’s a ground short.

Desync vs. Motor Failure

These get confused a lot. A desync is when the ESC loses track of the rotor position and fires phases at the wrong time. The quad tumbles or the motor screeches. But the motor itself might be perfectly fine—it’s an ESC communication problem.

Quick way to tell: if the motor spins freely by hand and passes the resistance test, but stutters under power, it’s probably a desync (check your ESC settings, demag compensation, and motor timing). If the motor resists spinning by hand or smells burnt, it’s a dead motor.

If you’re still not sure, try the cross-swap method: move the suspect motor to a different arm. If the problem follows the motor, the motor is bad. If the problem stays on the original arm, the ESC on that arm is bad.

Off-Balance Bells and Vibration Issues

A bent or unbalanced bell causes vibrations that mess up your HD footage (the dreaded “jello” effect) and can confuse your flight controller’s gyro, leading to hot motors from the PID loop constantly trying to compensate.

Common Causes

• Crash damage that slightly bends the bell
• A magnet getting chipped or knocked loose
• Poor factory balancing

The Quick Fix: Bell Swap

If your motor supports it (like the Steele motors I mentioned), just swap the bell. It’s the fastest and most reliable fix.

DIY Balancing (The Tape Method)

If you can’t swap the bell, you can try dynamic balancing:

1. Remove the props and tape your phone (with a vibration meter app) to the arm.
2. Spin the motor to about 1500 RPM via Betaflight’s motor tab.
3. Note the vibration reading.
4. Stick a small square of electrical tape on one side of the bell.
5. Spin again. If vibration goes up, move the tape 180°. If it goes down, you found the light spot.
6. Adjust tape position in small increments until vibration is minimized.

It’s not perfect, but it can make a meaningful difference—especially if you’re getting jello in your GoPro footage.

Stripped and Ruined Screw Holes

Motor mounting holes are usually M3 threads cut into soft aluminum. If you over-tighten, crash hard enough, or just have enough mounting/dismounting cycles, those threads will strip. I’ve ripped screw holes out more times than I can count—it’s one of the most common motor issues in freestyle.

The Helicoil Fix (The Only Real Fix)

Epoxy and thread-locker are not strong enough for the shear forces a motor experiences. The proper fix is a Helicoil insert:

1. Mask the motor. Wrap the entire motor in tape so no metal shavings get inside near the magnets. This is critical.
2. Drill out the stripped hole using the drill bit from your M3 Helicoil kit.
3. Tap new threads using the kit’s tap tool.
4. Screw in the stainless steel coil insert.
5. Break the tang off the bottom of the insert.

Now you have steel threads inside an aluminum base—actually stronger than the original factory threads. A Helicoil kit is worth keeping in your tool kit.

Motor Maintenance and Cleaning

I have a full separate guide on how to clean FPV drone motors, but here’s the summary.

After Dirty Crashes

Never spin a motor that’s full of dirt or sand. The grit acts as an abrasive paste that will destroy the bearing races almost instantly. Pull the bell off, flush with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush, and use compressed air to dry everything.

Magnetic Debris (Iron-Rich Sand)

If you fly at the beach or anywhere with iron-rich soil, tiny metallic particles will stick to the magnets inside the bell. Compressed air won’t get them off because they’re magnetically stuck. Use blue tack (sticky putty)—press it into the magnets and pull. Repeat until it comes out clean.

Saltwater Exposure

If your motors get saltwater on them, act immediately. Flush with fresh water first to remove the salt, then flush with isopropyl alcohol to displace the water. Saltwater strips factory bearing grease instantly and causes rapid corrosion. Even with quick action, saltwater damage is often permanent.

Bearing Care

Avoid getting isopropyl alcohol directly on bearings during cleaning—most FPV motor bearings aren’t fully sealed and contain factory grease you don’t want to wash out. A dry brush is usually enough for the bearings themselves.

How to Prevent Motor Failures

Most motor deaths are preventable. Here’s what I’ve learned (mostly the hard way):

Before You Fly

• Check motor screw length. If you’re swapping frames or using different mounting hardware, always verify that the screws aren’t long enough to poke through and contact the windings. Even 1mm too long can cause a short.
• Use a smoke stopper on new builds. A smoke stopper sits between your battery and quad and has a fuse or lightbulb that trips before your electronics fry. Always use one on the first power-up of a new build or after any wiring changes.
• Inspect your solder joints. Cold joints, bridged pads, and fractured connections are silent killers. If you’re new to soldering, take the time to learn it properly—it’ll save you hundreds of dollars in burned components. Here’s my soldering guide.
• Route wires carefully. Motor wires should never rub against sharp carbon fiber edges or get pinched between frame pieces. Frayed insulation leads to shorts, and shorts lead to fires. Use zip ties or heat shrink to keep things tidy.

In the Field

• If something’s wrong, DISARM. If you crash and the quad sounds wrong—grinding, stuttering, one motor not spinning—do not try to throttle out of it. Walk to your quad and check it. Trying to power through a stuck prop or tangled grass is the fastest way to smoke a motor and potentially kill an ESC too.
• Never put your foot on the drone and throttle up. I know this sounds obvious, but people do it to test motors in the field. The stress on the ESCs and motors with a stalled or heavily loaded prop is immense, and it’s also incredibly dangerous. Props can shatter and send shrapnel at you.
• Carry spare props and check them. A chipped or bent prop creates an unbalanced load that makes the motor and PID loop work overtime, generating excess heat. Swap bent props immediately.

On the Bench

• Don’t over-tighten motor screws. Snug is enough. Over-tightening strips the aluminum threads and puts stress on the motor base.
• Check motor temps after flights. If one motor is consistently hotter than the other three, something is off—bad bearings, partial demagnetization, bent bell, or a PID tuning issue. Investigate before it becomes a failure.

Quick Troubleshooting Reference

Motor stutters on power-up: Spin by hand. If smooth → likely ESC desync (check ESC settings). If bumpy/resists → shorted phase, replace motor and don’t plug in a battery.

Motor runs hot: Check screw length (screws touching windings?). Check Blackbox logs for excess D-term noise. Replace bent props. Check bearings.

One motor feels weak: Compare temps after a flight. If it’s hotter and weaker than the others, magnets may be demagnetized. Replace the motor or bell.

Gritty/crunchy feel when spinning: Dirt or sand in bearings. Clean with IPA and compressed air. If still gritty after cleaning, the bearings are shot—replace them or the motor.

Jello in video footage: Check bell balance. Try the tape balancing method. Replace bent props. Check that motor screws are tight.

Quad tumbles mid-flight (roll of death): Could be desync or motor failure. Land, do the hand-spin test, check motor resistance. Cross-swap motors to isolate the problem.

Final Thoughts

Motors are the hardest-working parts on your quad, and understanding how they work—and how they fail—makes you a better pilot and a more efficient builder. You don’t need to be an electrical engineer, but knowing the basics of KV, stator sizing, and how to diagnose a dead motor will save you a ton of money and frustration.

Take care of your gear, check your screws, use a smoke stopper, and for the love of everything—don’t try to throttle out of a bush.

If you want to check out the motors and other gear I personally run, head over to my gear page. And if you’re building your first quad, my first drone build guide walks through everything step by step.

Fly safe out there. 🤙

The post The Ultimate Guide to FPV Drone Motors: KV, Sizing, Failures, and Maintenance appeared first on MattyFleisch.

👉Get All the Zippo Hand Warmer Goodies Here
Stay Warm When the Cold Actually Hurts

If you’ve ever gone outside in winter and felt that sharp, painful cold in your fingers — you already know the problem.
I deal with it daily just walking my dog. I first picked this up working on film sets, freezing my ass off between takes.
I still use it when I fly drones, walk, work outside, drive, or just stand around waiting in the cold.

This Zippo hand warmer fixes that problem. It doesn’t “kind of” help — it gets HOT. I clocked mine at 141.3° F!

No batteries to charge. No disposables to throw away. I freaking hate those. I like that it’s just lighter fluid, a flame, and steady heat that lasts all day.

Something about having a battery made by children in another country makes me uneasy when you consider it’s engineered to get burning hot with a lithium battery. EHHH. Pass.

• Warms your hands fast — no waiting around, no disposable warmers that die after an hour
• Keeps heat where you need it — inside your pocket, gloves, or jacket
• Lasts up to 12 hours — perfect for long days outside in brutal cold

Once it’s lit, you don’t think about it anymore. You just… stay warm.

How a Zippo Hand Warmer Works

A Zippo hand warmer uses a catalytic heating process.
Instead of an open flame, lighter fluid reacts with a platinum catalyst inside the burner.
This creates heat without burning visibly, which is why it’s safe to keep in your pocket.

It takes a little getting used to if you’ve never heard of that before, but it is true – you never want to see a flame coming out of this thing. If you do, blow it out because you can damage the wick!

Inside the case is a cotton-filled fuel chamber that slowly releases vapor.
Once activated, the heat builds gradually and stays consistent for hours.

How to Fill a Zippo Hand Warmer

You can watch the video on lighting the hand warmer at the top of this page or by clicking here to goto YouTube.

Filling it is simple and takes about a minute:

1. Remove the burner top from the hand warmer
2. Use Zippo lighter fluid (or equivalent) and pour it into the little tank it comes with
3. Pour fluid into the center opening of the fuel chamber
4. Stop at the fill line (12-hour fill) or halfway for shorter use
5. Let it sit for a minute so the fuel absorbs into the cotton

Don’t overfill it — slower absorption means better performance and no mess.

How to Light a Zippo Hand Warmer

Lighting it can take 2-3 attempts, so be patient:

1. Watch the video at the top of the page for how to light it
2. Make sure the burner top is attached
3. Hold a flame to the burner screen for a few seconds
4. Rotate it slightly and give it time to catch
5. Wait 1–2 minutes for the heat to start building

You won’t see a flame. That’s normal. You’ll feel the heat ramp up instead. Sometimes it might feel like its lit, and then you feel it a few minutes later and it didn’t light. Just try again 2-3 times and it will eventually catch. Just remember you will never see a flame, it’s not meant to have an actual fire visible.

How Long Does a Zippo Hand Warmer Last?

With a full 12-hour fill, you’ll get up to 12 hours of continuous heat.
Half a fill is perfect for shorter trips and still lasts several hours.

I usually fill it halfway unless I know I’ll be outside all day.
It’s flexible, which makes it way more useful than disposable warmers.

👉Get All the Zippo Hand Warmer Goodies Here

(The link supports my work — I earn a small commission, and I appreciate it.)

Stay warm out there. Winter’s hard enough already. ❄️🔥

The post Zippo Hand Warmer – How it Works, How To Fill & Light, & How Long It Lasts appeared first on MattyFleisch.

How To Hunt for FPV Bandos

Back when I first started flying FPV it was VERY difficult (still is) to find new spots to fly. It takes a lot of research, poking around, and checking before I ever fly somewhere that looks abandoned. I just want to be clear… you should never trespass on private property. You should never break the law. You should always leave a spot looking just as good or better than when you showed up.

Too many pilots leave their shit everywhere, throw their batteries and broken props like it means nothing.

Do this instead: “Carry in-Carry out” (or “Pack it in, Pack it out”)

PICK UP YOUR SHIT AND TAKE IT OUT WITH YOU. TREAT EVERY PLACE LIKE A TEMPLE, AND AS IF YOU’RE A GUEST.

Finding Your Next Spot

Takes work. During the pandemic I had a lot of time on my hands and I used my Oculus and Google Earth to do my bidding. It is a VERY powerful piece of software, and it really gave me a keen insight into how to find good places where I won’t disturb anybody.

The green flags are fly spots that I’ve hunted down. Do not ask me for them, I don’t share these openly and too many people have used my spots and trashed them to the point where people start to notice and take measures to kick pilots out.

Again…it’s pretty simple. TAKE YOUR SHIT WITH YOU.

This is a random place I’ve never been to…

But I’ll show you why I would investigate something like this further….

From the top down it looks interesting… like it doesn’t belong.

But the pavement looks a little worn out like it has growth coming through it.

Now I’m not a fan of a main road being right there, but since there is seemingly a parking lot… the question is if there’s a visual obstruction that would make it feel like a safe place to rip a pack.

So this looks like it’s not actually abandoned, and there’s no buffer with the road. This is an automatic pass for me.

But this one looks pretty reasonable…It’s just a silly building with some trees.

I like that seems relatively empty, there’s lots of trees, and the road isn’t too close.

That means you could probably fly a couple packs without bugging anybody. Win-win.

Then I’ll check if there’s a street view and look what there is! It’s got a little garage thingie! Cool.

Next I’d probably check the hours of operation….see what kind of business it is… drive by and see what the deals is… and if it checks all the boxes where I don’t see anybody else… I’d check it out.

Also just a hint… sometimes the best course of action if you see security is to just straight up say hello and ask if they mind. A lot of times they don’t care as long as you’re not flying into cars and causing damage!

Just remember that you’re a guest and the property owners likely don’t want you there. Be respectful if anyone comes around, and if they ask you to leave DO NOT FIGHT WITH THEM! JUST LEAVE! There’s always another spot to be uncovered.

And for the love of G-D take all your trash with you.

The post How to Do FPV Bando Hunting appeared first on MattyFleisch.

The Muscle of Your Drone

The propulsion system of a modern First Person View (FPV) drone is a mix of aerodynamics and digital control. At the heart of this system lies the Electronic Speed Controller (ESC).

For the new builder, the ESC is the critical interface that translates the commands from your Flight Controller (FC) into the raw energy that spins your motors. It doesn’t just “spin” them—it manages high-current electricity thousands of times per second with micro-second precision.

It’s awesome, but also super freaking expensive, so you want to get it right!

Choosing the wrong ESC can lead to “desyncs” (a loss of control that causes crashes), burnt components, or poor flight performance. This guide will help you navigate the complex world of Amps, Voltage, and Firmware to pick the perfect ESC for your build.

⚠️ Important Note for Commercial & Government Pilots: NDAA Compliance

If you are building a drone for government contracts, federally funded projects, or critical infrastructure inspection (e.g., bridges, power lines), your build may be subject to the National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA). This legislation restricts the use of telecommunications and video surveillance equipment from specific foreign vendors. Standard hobbyist ESCs and Flight Controllers often do not meet these strict supply chain requirements.

Click here to read about NDAA Compliant FPV Parts

2. Choosing the Right Form Factor

The physical shape of your ESC dictates your entire build process. The market has consolidated around three distinct designs.

The 4-in-1 ESC (The Gold Standard)

• Best For: 5-inch Freestyle, Racing, and Cinematic rigs.

• How it works: Integrates four independent ESC circuits onto a single board that mounts in the center of the drone (usually 30x30mm or 20x20mm mounting holes).

• Why choose it?

  • Mass Centralization: By moving weight to the center of gravity, the drone spins faster and feels more “locked-in.”

  • Cleaner Wiring: It acts as its own Power Distribution Board (PDB), reducing the “rat’s nest” of wires.

• The Trade-off: If one channel fails, the entire board must be replaced.

All-In-One (AIO) Boards

• Best For: Micro drones, Tiny Whoops, and Toothpicks (under 250g).

• How it works: Combines the Flight Controller, 4-in-1 ESC, and receiver onto one tiny board.

• Why choose it? It is ultra-lightweight. Every gram matters on a micro drone.

• The Trade-off: High heat density and high risk—if you burn an ESC channel, you also lose your Flight Controller.

Individual (Single) ESCs

FPV pilots from yesteryear would remember that most rigs had individual ESCs back before 4 in 1s became the norm. They are still the case for larger cinema rigs and have a key advantage over 4 in 1s in that…when one goes bad you can just swap it out. Saves a lot of money.

• Best For: X-Class (Giant) drones and Long-Range Endurance rigs.

• How it works: Four separate ESCs mounted on the drone’s arms.

• Why choose it? Cooling. Being on the arms puts them directly in the propeller’s downwash (propwash). This active cooling allows them to handle massive continuous currents without overheating.

3. Voltage and Current: The Math of Sizing

Selecting an ESC is an exercise in matching electrical capability to mechanical load.

Voltage: The Shift from 4S to 6S

Modern high-performance FPV has largely shifted to 6S (22.2V) systems over the older 4S (14.8V) standard.

• The Efficiency Rule: Electrical power is defined as $P = V \times I$. By increasing the Voltage ($V$), we can decrease the Current ($I$) needed to produce the same power.

• The Result: 6S systems run cooler and suffer less “battery sag,” giving you consistent power right until the end of the battery pack.

• Motor Matching:

  • 4S Builds: Use 2300Kv – 2750Kv motors.

  • 6S Builds: Use 1700Kv – 1950Kv motors.

Current Ratings: Continuous vs. Burst

How many Amps do you need? Check your motor’s Thrust Table (usually available from the manufacturer). Look for the “Max Current” at 100% throttle.

• The Formula: Take the max draw and add a 25% safety margin for “unloading” and durability.

  $$Required Rating = \text{Motor Max Amps} \times 1.25$$

• Example: If your motor draws 35A on the bench:

  $$35A \times 1.25 \approx 44A$$

• Recommendation: A 55A or 60A ESC is the safe, durable standard for a modern 5-inch freestyle drone. “Over-sizing” your ESC is always safe; under-sizing it is dangerous.

4. Firmware: The Brain of the ESC

Hardware is nothing without software. The firmware on your ESC determines how smoothly your motors run.

Bluejay (For 8-bit ESCs)

If you buy a budget ESC (BLHeli_S), you must flash it with Bluejay firmware (it’s free and open-source).

• The Killer Feature: It unlocks Bidirectional DShot.

• Why it matters: This allows the ESC to talk back to the flight controller, reporting the exact RPM of the motors. The flight controller uses this data to run “RPM Filtering,” which surgically removes vibrations.

• Result: Smoother video, cooler motors, and better flight time.

AM32 (For 32-bit ESCs)

With the discontinuation of the old BLHeli_32 standard, AM32 has emerged as the new open-source king for high-performance 32-bit hardware.

• Advantages: Supports high PWM frequencies (up to 128kHz) for ultra-smooth throttle response and is immune to the licensing issues that killed BLHeli_32.

5. Wiring & Safety: Avoiding “Magic Smoke”

The most common point of failure for new builders is the physical wiring.

The “Pinout Trap”

CRITICAL WARNING: Most 4-in-1 ESCs connect to the FC with a ribbon cable. Never assume this cable is plug-and-play.

• Manufacturer A might put “Battery Voltage” on Pin 1.

• Manufacturer B might put “Ground” on Pin 1.

• The Result: If you plug them in without checking, you will send 25V straight into a 5V logic chip, instantly frying your Flight Controller. Ask me how I know this, lol.

• The Fix: Always compare the wiring diagram of your ESC and FC side-by-side. You may need to remove wires from the plastic connector and rearrange them (“re-pinning”).

The Capacitor is Mandatory

ESCs operate by chopping power on and off thousands of times a second. This creates massive voltage spikes (Back EMF) that can exceed 35V. This is also going to be a huge help if you’re running an analog video system as the extra signal cleaning helps with feedback and overall signal quality. If you want to learn more about analog vtxs and stuff it’s here.

• The Defense: You must solder a capacitor to the main battery pads.

• The Spec: You need a Low ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) capacitor. Standard capacitors cannot react fast enough.

  • Recommended Series: Panasonic FM/FR or Rubycon ZLJ.

  • 5″ Drone Size: 1000µF at 35V (Minimum) or 50V (Preferred).

Use a “Smoke Stopper”

A Smoke Stopper is a cheap device with a fuse or lightbulb that plugs between your battery and drone.

• Procedure: Always use this for your first power-up.

• Function: If there is a short circuit, the stopper trips/glows and cuts power before your electronics burn.

Summary Recommendation Table

Ready to build?

The key to a reliable drone is not just buying the most expensive parts—it’s matching them correctly. Stick to the 6S standard, use Bidirectional DShot (via Bluejay or AM32), and always check your pinouts. If you still don’t know which to go with, I suggest looking at a FPV drone kit which will have this picked out for you. Happy flying!

The post The Ultimate Guide to FPV Drone ESCs: Sizing, Firmware & Wiring appeared first on MattyFleisch.

This guide is meant to give you a clear, practical understanding of what matters when choosing a VTX, with simple recommendations to help you avoid common mistakes. I’m MattyFleisch FPV and have been flying FPV drones since 2015. If you’re curious about putting together your first drone.

What Is a VTX?

A VTX (Video Transmitter) sends the live camera feed from your drone to your FPV goggles. In analog FPV, this is done over 5.8GHz (usually) radio frequencies using fixed bands and channels.

Analog 5.8 GHz FPV is organized into Bands and Channels. Most modern VTXs/goggles use this table internally.

Your video system is made up of:

• The camera

• The VTX

• The antenna on the drone

• The antenna(s) on your goggles

All four matter, but the VTX and antenna choices will have the biggest impact on reliability and range which can be tricky if flying around objects like walls, buildings, bodies of water, etc.

Click here for my favorite VTX I always use on my rigs

What Actually Matters When Choosing a VTX

When looking at VTX options, ignore the marketing first and focus on these core factors:

1. Adjustable Power Levels

A good VTX should support multiple power levels, typically:

• 25mW (for racing and close proximity flying)

• 200mW

• 400mW

• 800mW or higher

This lets you run low power around other pilots and increase power when flying alone or in more challenging environments.

More power is not always better. A clean 200mW setup with good antennas often outperforms a poorly installed 800mW setup.

One of the big tricks to getting a clean analog signal is to ensure you’ve got excellent grounding + caps installed to clean and smooth out the electrical signals.

2. SmartAudio or Tramp Control

Modern VTXs use control protocols that let you change channel, band, and power from your radio or on-screen display.

The two main ones are:

• SmartAudio (used by TBS and many others)

• Tramp (used by ImmersionRC style units)

I will sometimes skip setting this up for simplicity’s sake.

3. Clean Signal and Reliability

Not all VTXs transmit cleanly. Cheaper units often bleed into adjacent channels and create interference, especially in group flying situations.

Higher quality VTXs:

• Have better RF filtering

• Stay stable under voltage changes

• Produce less noise

This is one of the main reasons why I tend to prefer brands like TBS. I’ve also run into build quality issues with the other manufacturers, especially those running mmcx connectors. They are the worst!

4. Power Input (5V vs HV)

There are two main types:

• 5V VTXs – powered from the flight controller’s 5V rail

• HV (High Voltage) VTXs – powered directly from the battery (2S–6S)

HV VTXs are popular because they are more tolerant of electrical noise and simplify wiring. TBS Unify HV models are well known for being robust in this regard.

I personally use the 5V version more often because you can get a cleaner power source and signal I find. People like to fight me on this, but it’s a personal preference.

5. Size and Form Factor

VTXs come in:

• Full size

• Mini

• Nano

• Whoop boards

Smaller is not always better. Tiny VTXs often have worse heat dissipation. If you have space, a slightly larger unit is usually more durable and easier to work with. This is why I stand by the Unify Pro V3 for all these years, it’s a great unit.

Click here for my favorite VTX I always use on my rigs

Why Many Pilots Prefer TBS Unify VTXs

There are many VTX brands available, including Rush, AKK, Foxeer, and ImmersionRC. They all work, but TBS has built a strong reputation for:

• Clean RF output

• Reliable SmartAudio implementation

• Good thermal design

• Consistent quality control

• Excellent documentation

For a beginner, this means fewer random issues and less troubleshooting.

Popular beginner-friendly TBS options include:

• TBS Unify Pro V3 – a great all-around choice

• TBS Unify Pro HV – ideal if you want to power directly from the battery

• TBS Unify Pro Race – lighter, lower power, good for race environments

They cost a bit more than budget brands, but they save time and frustration.

Click here for my favorite VTX I always use on my rigs

Understanding VTX Power Levels

Here is a simple guideline:

• 25mW – racing, indoor, flying with many pilots

• 200–400mW – typical freestyle flying, parks, bandos

• 800mW+ – long range, heavy interference areas

Always use the lowest power that gives you a solid signal. Higher power increases heat and noise.

Antennas Matter as Much as the VTX

Your VTX is only as good as the antenna attached to it.

Key points:

• Match polarization between VTX and goggles (LHCP to LHCP, RHCP to RHCP)

• Avoid cheap stock antennas

• Secure the antenna so it is not stressing the connector

• Make sure you are using the correct connector type (SMA vs RP-SMA)

Many “bad VTX” complaints are actually antenna problems.

Heat and Bench Safety

VTXs are designed to be cooled by airflow. If you power one at high output on the bench with no airflow, it can overheat and fail.

Best practice:

• Use 25mW or pit mode when configuring

• Use a fan if you need to power the quad for more than a minute

• Do not leave the quad powered on at high VTX power without props spinning

Common Beginner Mistakes

• Buying the cheapest VTX available and fighting signal issues

• Running high power all the time and overheating the unit

• Ignoring antenna quality and polarization

• Not using SmartAudio and having to press tiny buttons

• Powering from a noisy 5V rail and getting video interference

A Simple Recommendation

If you want something that will just work, grow with you, and not cause headaches:

• Choose a TBS Unify Pro V3 or HV

• Pair it with a quality LHCP antenna

• Enable SmartAudio

• Start at 200mW

• Increase only if needed

This setup will cover racing, freestyle, and light long-range use without needing to upgrade.

Final Thoughts

Analog FPV is not going away. In fact, in a world where digital systems are increasingly locked down, regulated, and vendor-controlled, analog remains simple, reliable, and future-proof.

A good VTX setup is not about chasing the highest power number. It is about clean signal, good antennas, and solid hardware. Start with quality, and you will spend more time flying and less time troubleshooting.

Click here for my favorite VTX I always use on my rigs

The post A Beginner’s Guide to Analog FPV Video Transmitters (VTX) – What to Buy and Why appeared first on MattyFleisch.

This is the main charging accessory included with (or commonly paired with) the DJI Avata 2 Fly More Combo (review here). It’s designed to manage up to three DJI Intelligent Flight Batteries in one unit, making it much easier to cycle packs during a flying session. FYI you will need to supply a USB C power suppy with wire. It doesn’t come with that. If you want to juice your batteries faster, I highly recommend this wall wart with Power Delivery. It makes things a lot faster.

Click here to grab the DJI Charging Hub

What It Actually Does

🔋 Charges Up to 3 Batteries (Automatically)

• You can insert up to three Avata 2 batteries at once.

• The hub will automatically charge them in sequence (one after another).

• You do not need to plug/unplug or manually manage order.

Important:
It is sequential charging, not true parallel charging. That means:

• Battery 1 charges → then Battery 2 → then Battery 3

• This is intentional and helps manage heat and battery health.

Hint: I am impatient so I will charge 1-2 in the hub and the other one in the Avata 2 itself 🙂 

⚡ Power Accumulation Mode (Very Underrated Feature)

This is one of the coolest parts of the hub.

It can:

• Pull remaining charge from multiple partially-used batteries

• Combine that energy into one higher-charge battery

This is extremely useful when:

• You’ve got 3 batteries at 20–30%

• You want one usable flight battery instead of three useless ones

It basically consolidates your energy so you can keep flying!!!

🔌 Acts as a Power Bank

With a battery inserted, the hub can output power via USB.

You can charge:

• Goggles

• Controller

• Phone

• Action camera

• Any USB device

So in the field, it doubles as a portable power source, not just a charger. I don’t bother doing this, but it’s a cool feature.

Charging Speed (Real-World)

With a proper high-wattage USB-C charger (65W recommended):

• ~45 minutes per battery from empty to full

• Total time for all 3 batteries ≈ 2–2.5 hours depending on state of charge

With a weak phone charger:

• It will still work

• But it will be significantly slower

What It Does NOT Include (Important)

❌ No wall charger included
❌ No power brick included

You must supply:

• A USB-C Power Delivery (PD) charger

• Ideally 65W or higher for best performance

This catches a lot of people off guard.

The hub is just the hub — it needs an external power source.

Why This Hub Is Actually a Big Deal for FPV

From an FPV workflow perspective, this hub is huge because:

• FPV sessions are battery-limited

• Swapping single batteries on individual chargers is annoying

• This hub:

  • Centralizes your power

  • Manages charging automatically

  • Lets you optimize remaining energy

  • Reduces downtime between packs

It’s very clearly designed for:

“Fly, land, drop battery, grab next one, repeat.”

Which is exactly how FPV pilots operate.

Click here for the DJI Charging Hub

Common Misconceptions

“It charges 3 batteries at once”

Not exactly.

It holds 3 batteries at once
But it charges them one at a time

That’s not a flaw — it’s intentional for:

• Thermal management

• Battery longevity

• Reliability

Some third-party hubs claim parallel charging, but DJI chose stability over marketing.

Quick Feature Summary

Who This Hub Is Perfect For

This hub is especially valuable if you:

• Fly FPV aggressively (not cinematic once-a-week flights)

• Do back-to-back packs

• Travel with your drone

• Fly in remote areas

• Hate cable chaos

• Want predictable battery rotation

In other words:
If you actually use the Avata 2 the way it’s meant to be used, this hub is borderline essential.

Click here for the DJI Charging Hub

The post Essential Gear: DJI Avata 2 Two-Way Charging Hub appeared first on MattyFleisch.

Soldering is one of the most important skills in FPV (First Person View) drone building. Whether you’re assembling your first quadcopter or troubleshooting a video transmitter in the field, the quality of your solder joints directly impacts flight reliability. One question many pilots and builders ask is:

If my solder already has flux inside it, do I really need to add more flux?

The short answer: sometimes yes, sometimes no. In this guide, I’ll explain when flux-core solder alone is enough, and when you should still reach for extra flux.

What Is Flux-Core Solder?

Flux-core solder is solder wire with a thin channel of flux running through its center. As the solder melts, the internal flux is released, cleaning the metal surfaces and helping molten solder flow smoothly over the joint. This is the solder I’ve been using and have been happy with.

For FPV electronics work, most builders use rosin-core or no-clean flux solder in a diameter between 0.5 mm and 0.8 mm. This size and composition work well for everything from ESC pads to small signal wires.

When the solder melts, that flux:

• cleans oxidation

• improves heat transfer

• helps solder “wet” the metal

• makes the joint flow smoothly

Without flux, solder just beads up and refuses to stick.

For FPV work, I typically use:

• rosin-core or no-clean

• 0.5–0.8mm diameter

That size gives you control on tiny pads without flooding everything.

It’s what I use for basically every build.

This is the solder I use

When Flux-Core Solder Is Enough in FPV

From experience, there are plenty of times when the built-in flux will give you a perfect, reliable joint without any extras.

1. Fresh, clean pads

Brand new flight controllers and ESCs usually solder beautifully.

No oxidation. No grime.

Just:

• heat

• touch solder

• done

The internal flux handles everything.

2. Pre-tinning pads and wires

When you’re tinning:

• motor wires

• receiver leads

• small signal wires

Flux-core is perfect.

Quick touch → shiny coat → move on.

No need to overthink it.

3. Small signal wires

UART, RX, camera, VTX control wires — these joints are tiny and low-current.

They don’t require much heat or solder.

Extra flux usually isn’t necessary.

4. Field repairs

If you’re fixing something at the flying field, you probably don’t want to carry:

• flux pen

• paste

• alcohol

• wipes

Flux-core solder keeps things simple and fast.

I’ve fixed plenty of quads with just:

• iron

• solder

• tweezers

When You Should Still Add Extra Flux

Click here for the flux pen I use

Even good flux-core solder has its limits. Here are scenarios where extra flux makes the difference between a “good enough” joint and a bulletproof one.

1. Oxidized or Dirty Pads

FPV gear often gets exposed to moisture, grass, and dust. This creates surface oxidation that the small amount of internal flux can’t fully remove. Adding extra flux ensures the solder wets the pad properly.

2. Large Heat-Demanding Joints

For XT60/XT30 connectors, ESC ground pads, or large capacitor leads, extra flux improves heat transfer and solder flow, making the job quicker and reducing the risk of overheating the pad.

Extra flux:

• improves heat transfer

• helps solder flow faster

• reduces the time you’re cooking the pad

3. Reflowing Old Solder

If you’re reworking a joint, the old solder already on the pad won’t get much help from the flux in your new solder wire. Applying extra flux helps the old solder reflow and bond cleanly.

4. Delicate SMD Work

Small components like VTX antenna ground shields or camera connectors need precision. Extra flux helps control solder flow and avoid accidental bridges.

Click here for the flux pen I use

Best Practices for Using Flux-Core Solder in FPV

• Buy quality solder – Brands like Kester and MG Chemicals have reliable flux that flows well and burns off cleanly.

• Use the right diameter – 0.5–0.8 mm gives you control on small pads without overloading them.

• Don’t rely on flux-core for cleaning – If the board looks dull or has visible corrosion, clean it first with isopropyl alcohol and apply extra flux.

• Store properly – Keep solder sealed in a cool, dry place to prevent oxidation.

I use Flux-core solder for most FPV soldering tasks, especially when working with fresh pads, clean wires, and small joints. But when you’re dealing with oxidation, big connectors, or rework jobs, adding extra flux—whether from a pen, paste, or liquid—can mean the difference between a joint that works now and one that lasts.

The post How To Solder FPV Drone Electronics appeared first on MattyFleisch.

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Why FPV Drone Simulators Are Essential for Beginners

FPV simulators offer a safe, cost-effective way to practice drone flying before taking to the skies. Key benefits include:

• Risk-Free Learning: Develop flying skills without crashing a real drone.
• Muscle Memory Training: Master flight controls to build confidence for real-world flying.
• Training Modules: Access structured tutorials for essential maneuvers.

Key Features to Look for in Beginner FPV Simulators

• Realistic Physics: Accurate flight dynamics that closely mimic real FPV drones.
• Training Modes: Step-by-step guides for basic and advanced maneuvers.
• Adjustable Difficulty: Scale complexity as you progress.
• Controller Compatibility: Supports a wide range of FPV controllers.
• Affordable Pricing: Free or budget-friendly options for beginners.

Best FPV Simulators for Beginners – Top Picks

1. VelociDrone – Best for Realistic Racing

• Key Features: Realistic physics, MultiGP tracks, customizable drones.
• Pros: Accurate flight feel, strong racing community, supports Tiny Whoops and micro quads.
• Cons: Graphics are basic, primarily focused on racing.
• Price: ~$21.

2. FPV Logic – Best for Freestyle Practice

• Key Features: Tuned physics for freestyle, lean interface, minimal distractions.
• Pros: Smooth, realistic flight dynamics, excellent for tricks and maneuvers.
• Cons: Limited maps and customization options.
• Price: ~$20.

1. DRL Simulator – Best for Training and Racing

• Key Features: 30+ training modules, official DRL tracks, customizable drones.
• Pros: Multiplayer mode, intuitive interface, strong community.
• Cons: Physics can feel arcade-like compared to real FPV drones.
• Price: $10-20.

2. FPV SkyDive – Best Free Option

• Key Features: Free-to-play, beginner-friendly maps, decent physics.
• Pros: Cost-effective, easy controller setup, regular updates.
• Cons: Limited maps, paid add-ons for advanced content.
• Price: Free.

3. Liftoff – Best for Console Players

• Key Features: Console and PC compatibility, community-created tracks, tutorials.
• Pros: Freestyle and racing modes, customizable drones.
• Cons: Physics can feel floaty, hardware demanding.
• Price: ~$20.

4. Tiny Whoop Go – Best for Indoor Practice

• Key Features: Focused on Tiny Whoop drones, realistic micro drone physics.
• Pros: Free, great for indoor practice, accurate physics for micro drones.
• Cons: Limited to micro drones, fewer maps.
• Price: Free.

5. FPV Freerider – Best for Low-Spec PCs

• Key Features: Lightweight, simple interface, acro mode.
• Pros: Runs on older PCs, affordable, straightforward controls.
• Cons: Outdated graphics, limited features.
• Price: ~$5.

Best Radios for FPV Simulators

Choosing the right radio controller can greatly impact your experience with FPV simulators. Here are some of the best radios for beginners:

1. RadioMaster TX16S – Best Overall
   • Multi-protocol support, customizable switches, Hall sensor gimbals.
   • Compatible with major simulators like VelociDrone, Liftoff, and DRL.
   • Price: ~$150.
2. TBS Tango 2 – Best for Portability
   • Compact, Crossfire protocol, built-in screen.
   • Excellent for racing and freestyle, ideal for sim practice.
   • Price: ~$200.
3. RadioMaster Boxer – Best Mid-Range Option
   • Compact design, multi-protocol, OpenTX/EdgeTX.
   • Hall sensor gimbals, great for both sims and real flights.
   • Price: ~$120.
4. Ethix Boxer Mr. Steele – Best for Freestyle
   • Custom-tuned version of the RadioMaster Boxer.
   • Pre-configured with Ethix settings, high-quality gimbals.
   • Price: ~$280.
5. FlySky FS-i6 – Best for Beginners on a Budget
   • Basic, easy to set up, widely available.
   • Affordable, great for basic practice.
   • Price: ~$40.

If you’re ready for a beginner FPV drone kit, please click here to learn more.

Comparison Table – Best FPV Simulators for Beginners

How to Choose the Right FPV Simulator for Freestyle & Racing

When selecting a simulator, consider your budget, hardware compatibility, drone type, and skill focus:

• Complete Beginners: FPV SkyDive or DRL Simulator for structured training.
• Micro Drone Practice: Tiny Whoop Go for accurate indoor physics.
• Console Gamers: Liftoff for its console compatibility and content.
• Older PCs: FPV Freerider for its low system requirements.

Click Here To Start The FPV Starter Playlist

Conclusion: Start Flying Without Risking Your Drone

Whether you’re just starting out or looking to sharpen your racing or freestyle moves, these FPV simulators provide the perfect training ground without the risk of expensive crashes. From arcade-style racing to ultra-realistic freestyle practice, these picks will help you level up your flying game before hitting the skies for real. Start with a free or budget-friendly option, then explore more advanced simulators as your skills progress. Ready to fly? Choose your simulator and get started today!

The post From Zero to Pro: The Best FPV Drone Simulators to Learn Freestyle & Racing appeared first on MattyFleisch.