Not every build needs a dual-band, Gemini-capable, do-everything receiver. Sometimes you just need a tiny, reliable 2.4GHz ELRS receiver that works, weighs nothing, and costs less than a pack of props. That’s exactly what the Radiomaster XR2 is.

At $10, 0.8 grams, and 16mm x 12mm, this thing is absurdly small and absurdly capable. It runs the same LR1121 chipset as the rest of Radiomaster’s XR lineup — including the XR4 Gemini Xrossband — which means you get access to newer packet rate modes that older ELRS receivers can’t touch. It just does it with a single built-in ceramic tower antenna instead of dual external antennas.

Who Is the XR2 For?

The XR2 is the right receiver for the majority of FPV builds that most people are actually flying. If you’re building a 5-inch freestyle quad, a 3-inch toothpick, a Tiny Whoop, or really any build where you’re flying line-of-sight within a reasonable distance, this is the receiver I’d reach for.

Here’s why: 2.4GHz ELRS on even a basic receiver like this has more range and better link quality than most pilots will ever need for freestyle. You’re not going to outfly this thing doing power loops at your local park or ripping through a bando. The range and reliability of ELRS at 2.4GHz on the LR1121 chipset is just that good.

Where the XR2 does NOT make sense is long range or high-interference environments where you’d want dual-band diversity or Gemini Xrossband. For that, you want the XR4. But for everything else — and that’s most flying — the XR2 is all you need.

XR2 Specs

MCU: ESP32C3

RF Chip: Semtech LR1121

Frequency: 2.4GHz (2.400 – 2.479GHz)

Antenna: Integrated ceramic tower antenna (no external antenna needed)

Telemetry Power: 10mW

Max Packet Rate: DK500Hz

Min Packet Rate: 50Hz

Working Voltage: 5V DC

Weight: 0.8g

Dimensions: 16mm x 12mm x 6mm

Firmware: ExpressLRS v3.5.1 pre-installed

Bus: CRSF (plus a second UART for future expansion)

What Makes the XR2 Different from Older ELRS Receivers

The big deal here is the LR1121 chipset. Older Radiomaster receivers like the RP1 and RP2 used the SX1280 chip, which was 2.4GHz only and limited to the older modulation modes. The LR1121 is a newer generation chip that technically supports both 2.4GHz and 900MHz bands. On the XR2, the 900MHz capability is locked out because the built-in ceramic antenna is tuned for 2.4GHz only — but the chip itself brings other advantages.

The biggest one is DK500 mode. This is a K-mode packet rate that uses FSK modulation with Forward Error Correction. It sends packets at 1000Hz over the air but uses DVDA (duplicate packets) to give you an effective 500Hz with massive redundancy. It was designed specifically for high-noise environments like race events where interference from other pilots is a real problem. Older SX1280-based receivers can’t run K modes at all — that’s an LR1121 exclusive.

You also get the built-in Wi-Fi module for firmware updates and configuration through a browser-based WebUI. Connect your laptop or phone, load your bind phrase, adjust settings, done. No flashing tools, no USB cables needed for configuration.

The Ceramic Tower Antenna

One of the things I like about the XR2 is the integrated tower antenna. No fragile coax pigtails to manage, no antenna tubes to mount, no IPEX connectors to worry about popping off in a crash. The antenna is just built into the board and sticks up vertically.

The trade-off is range and signal penetration compared to an external T-antenna. For long range, this matters. For freestyle and racing? It really doesn’t. You’re getting plenty of signal for anything within a reasonable flying distance, and the simplicity of not having to route and mount an external antenna is a real benefit, especially on tight builds like whoops and micros where every millimeter counts.

The tower design also gives the antenna some vertical height above the flight controller and stack, which helps with reception since it gets the antenna element up and out of the electronics noise a bit.

Soldering and Installation

The XR2 uses castled edge pads, which makes soldering easy. You get four pads: 5V, GND, TX, and RX. There’s also a second UART broken out on the board for future expansion, though nothing uses it yet.

The receiver comes with a CRSF wire and heat shrink in the box. For most builds, you’ll solder the CRSF wire to the receiver pads, run it to an open UART on your flight controller, and enable Serial RX in Betaflight. If you’ve done it before, this takes about 5 minutes. If you haven’t, check out my guide on soldering FPV drone electronics — it walks you through everything you need to know.

At 0.8 grams, the XR2 adds basically nothing to your all-up weight. On a sub-250g build, that matters. On a 5-inch quad, you won’t even notice it.

XR2 vs. the Rest of the XR Lineup

Radiomaster has four receivers in the XR series, and they all use the LR1121 chipset. Here’s how they compare:

XR1 (~$12): Multi-frequency — can switch between 2.4GHz and 900MHz, but one band at a time. Single external antenna. Good if you want the option to run 900MHz later without buying a new receiver.

XR2 (~$10): 2.4GHz only with a built-in ceramic tower antenna. The smallest, lightest, and cheapest option. Perfect for freestyle, racing, and any build where you don’t need 900MHz or diversity.

XR3 (~$30): Multi-frequency with antenna diversity — two external antennas, and the receiver picks the one with better signal at any given moment. A middle-ground option for pilots who want better signal coverage without going full Gemini.

XR4 (~$35): True diversity, dual-band, full Gemini Xrossband (Gem-X) support. Two independent LR1121 RF circuits, two dual-band T-antennas. The top of the line for long range, professional work, and maximum reliability. Read my full breakdown of the XR4 here.

For most pilots, the decision really comes down to: do you need 900MHz or dual-band diversity? If yes, look at the XR3 or XR4. If no — and for most freestyle and racing setups the answer is no — save the money and grab the XR2.

Compatibility

The XR2 works with any ELRS 2.4GHz transmitter. That means any Radiomaster radio with ELRS (Boxer, TX16S, TX15, Pocket, GX12), any Radiomaster external module (Ranger, Nomad), and any third-party ELRS 2.4GHz transmitter from BetaFPV, Happymodel, GEPRC, etc. ELRS is an open protocol — if your transmitter runs ELRS on 2.4GHz, the XR2 will bind to it.

It also supports CRSF and SBUS output protocols, so it works with Betaflight, iNav, and Ardupilot flight controllers. For most FPV pilots running Betaflight, you’ll use CRSF, which gives you full telemetry back to your radio.

If you’re new to all of this and trying to figure out what radio to pair with it, check out my post on the best beginner drone radio.

My Take

The XR2 is one of those parts I just keep buying. At $10, I grab a few every time I place a parts order so I always have one on hand. It’s the receiver I put in every freestyle 5-inch build, every toothpick, and every whoop where I just need reliable 2.4GHz ELRS without overthinking it.

The LR1121 chipset means it’s not going to be obsolete anytime soon — it supports the latest ELRS packet rate modes including DK500 for race environments. The built-in ceramic antenna keeps things simple. The Wi-Fi config means setup takes a minute. And at 0.8 grams, you forget it’s even there.

If you’re building a long-range rig or flying professionally at events, go get the XR4 with Gemini Xrossband — that’s a different tool for a different job. But for everyday flying, the XR2 is the receiver to beat.

Grab the Radiomaster XR2 here.

Related Posts

Radiomaster XR4 Gemini Xrossband Receiver – The XR2’s big brother with dual-band Gemini Xrossband for long range and maximum reliability.

Best FPV Drone Kits for Beginners – Everything you need to get started from RTF kits to full DIY builds.

Best Beginner Drone Radio – Why starting with a radio and simulator is the best path into FPV.

Beginner DIY Drone Kits – My recommendations for building your first quad.

How to Solder FPV Drone Electronics – Essential skill for installing receivers like the XR2.

FPV Drone Motors – Finding the Right One – Understanding KV and choosing between freestyle and long-range motors.

Best FPV Drone Simulators – Practice before you fly for real.